Hi folks. Nipped into Cornerspeed this afternoon and bought a new outer seal for the fuel filler cap on my '93 750ss. Got home and offered it up and guess what? It looks too bloody small! I can't imagine it would stretch enough so I'm just wondering if there might be another size that's correct for my bike. Kicking myself as I went and collected it on the bike so I could have checked the size while I was there 'DOH!' Also priced a new clutch while I was there as mine is just starting to slip - £176! Neil suggested that it might be a good idea to check what oil has been put in as some oils can cause this - I'll have to get in touch with the previous owner as I have only just bought this bike and the guy I bought it off had just done an oil change before I bought it. I don't mind fitting a new clutch but would prefer to spend £176 on petrol in the tank.
Right then , push the ally housing down with a gap of around 5mm between the top of the flange and the tank , grab the new rubber ring and starting one side gradually push into the gap , work your way around and hey presto 30 seconds later the rubber ring fits , finally push home the ally and do up the grub screws, trust me I was faced with the same dilemma a couple of weeks ago this was my way round it. It helps if you lubricate both seals with some rubber grease.
Thanks for clearing that up Nelly - saved me a phone call. By the way, do I need to get into the tank from underneath to change it? I can't see any way of removing the aluminium housing from above.
There are a series of small allen screws around the inside remove them all and then have fun trying to pull the ally piece upwards, it will come I had to help it a little with a flat blade screwdriver, smearing the tank o ring with rubber grease will help insertion ! oo er missus.
Thanks very much for that. Should have put my glasses on before attempting a fiddly job like that - helps if you can see what you're doing.
I've done the same job on my 900 and the hardest part was getting the top filler plate out. Word of caution there is a green o-ring seal on the filler plate; be very careful with it as depending on how long its been in situ may mean that when you pull the filler plate out it goues all lose and baggy and you'll have a devils own job to get it back in again. Oh a tin of red rubber grease is a must with this job. Enjoy
and DO remember to put the drain hose on the right spigot - not the blanked off one like I did. If you do, you'll find the rubber seal really doesn't do a lot to stop a full tank from running down the side of your bike.
Thanks for the tips guys. You're right, It's a b-----d to get it out the tank. Plenty of rubber grease looks like a good idea. I think I'll do the filter mod (external) while I'm in there. Looks to be quite rusty in the very bottom of the tank and a few bubbles in the paint on the outside. Anybody used one of those tank sealing kits before? It's not leaking but just wondered if it could stop any future leaks developing.
Why bother doing the filter mod ? Its not as if you have to change it that often and its much neater inside. I think my advice with Tank lining is best to find someone who knows what they are doing and get it done once properly , I had a go with Por15 and ended up cocking it up ££'s literally down the drain and I would consider myself fairly good at most things.
You're quite right about the filter mod. I had a look where the new filter might fit and it looks like it will be visible wherever I put it, so in the tank it's gone. It all went together nicely with a good smear of silicone grease around the tank and seals. I also took the opportunity to get the outer rim and the grooved part of the filler cap on the polishing mop while they were out. Looks so much better than it did before.
Great new's it wasnt to difficult was it ? certainly not the drama that has been made of it before. I cleaned the grooved part of mine on my polishing mop with a £m satten mop, there excellent for removing corrosion etc.
No drama at all. Worst part was removing the housing from the tank but perceverence (correct spelling?) is all thats needed. Was nice to be able to match the filter up with one at the motor factors we use to supply most of our parts at work. £2.40 + vat - bargain! I work on modern cars all day so changing the filter didn't cause me any grief. I've changed headlamp bulbs that are worse!
I've done some old cars when i was an apprentice , changing a mini (old one ) clutch in situ without dropping the engine I seem to rember was a drama ! Glad you got it sorted . PS I've changed Headlight bulbs that were worse !
Better overall to remove the filter and pump from inside the tank altogether and fit a solid state pump externally....you can even have two filters that way... Yep, Mini clutches done with the engine in-situ.....what a b*****d of a job......taking the rad out first made it easier, but not much..... ......fitting a fibreglass front removed all the hassle, particularly if the inner wing at the clutch end was cut off and then refixed so it was easily unbolted..... ....I can't remember how many times I have done Mini clutches......but infinitely preferable to laying under a Ford or TR4 to drop the prop shaft and gearbox..... Beetles were easy though......four bolts hold the engine in......cut a hole in the parcel shelf to get at one of them. AL.
so if you were to move the pump to an external mounting point, what pump would you use? What fuel pressures would be required? I'm liking this idea. And you'd gain an extra cup of fuel capacity in your tank :smile:
This one.....Facet Posi-Flow Electric Fuel Pump 1 5-4 00psi 60104 - special offer with straight unions You shouldn't need a flow regulator, because you have a return to the tank. I would mount it on the right side of the bike so it sits proud of the frame, but in the V where the full fairing mount tube is bolted to the frame plate. The pumps are a bit noisy, but on a Ducati, who cares? NB...For a fuel injected bike, a different pump is needed.....This company are very good with advice. AL.
