1199 Termignoni Fitting

Evening. Thought I'd just give everyone a quick précis of fitting my own Termis today.

The job took 3 hours in total and all I needed was a decent set tools: hex sockets, torx socket (T20), Allen keys, long nose pliers etc. All my stuff is Halfords professional - and I love the quality of them.

The video on YouTube is all you need - that and a bit of common sense. Here's the link:

I bought the Termis from eBay last week - they'd come from an 1199s and were advertised at £950 including the up-map. I'm not sure why no one else snapped them up. Think they were advertised in the wrong place. I made a 'Best Offer' and got them for £760 (including P&P).

They needed a clean with some Autosol metal polish but had no damage and now look like new.

The first thing I did was install the up-map. As @nelly said (I think), dead simple - just plug in the map under the seat and turn the bike on. There's a video for that too:

The guy, @Slamy A is a YouTube legend.

I was concerned the up-map was corrupt or empty. The price I paid for the exhausts seemed too good to be true! It wasn't and worked a treat.

Then to the exhausts:

The first step was taking the fairings off. Dead easy - just keep the studs separate as you're soon going to have a shit load of bolts in front of you (I didn't - you'll see in the photos in a minute.... Doh!).

Next step: Remove the bolts around the gasket. There are 3 and they are bastards. The heat seizes them and because I chose to leave the back wheel on (pure laze) the lack of space makes it really difficult. This took the most time of all and it would be really easy to round the heads out, so take care. I ended up using an Allen key for the top 2 and frigged a socket extension together for the bottom bolt. It's between the pipes as the split to the cans.



Then you take the front nuts off and repeat for both sides. The hangers need to come off the engine next. Be really careful with the LHS as it's a bastard to get to and again, could easily result in rounding the heads from the nuts. Removing the rearset is essential.

The wiring loom is easy. I taped over the servo motor plug and then tie-wrapped back in place.




I took the opportunity to give the bike a thorough degrease and clean while I had it apart.

The brackets come off next and then you'll need to reuse the rubber grommets for your Termi brackets. All straight forward.

The servo cable came away easily - you YouTube video does not mention the bolt that holds the plastic cable cover against the sump (its underneath the sump). You have to remove the plastic cable cover in its entirety to unhook the cable from the plastic tray under the sump:
Then that all got a good clean too.

I decided to leave the flapper valve intact (asked here for advice first). Grinding the flap out (a la video) would mean the stock cans could never go back on.

Removing the cable and the servo means the flap defaults open all the time. I figured that if I was good enough for the small obstruction to make a difference to my riding because of overall exhaust mass flow then a). I'd be fitting a full exhaust vice slip-ons, and b). My team of mechanics would be doing the work for me!

Refitting the Termis was easy enough. Just fiddly around the manifold and and needed to be careful not to cross thread the rear bracket nuts - especially on the LHS.

All simple enough!



Anyway - I'll stop boring everyone. If anyone else is thinking of doing this then go for it! Give me a shout if you want to ask any specific questions before you start.



Finally, I ran it for ages just to check the fan kicked in and there were no map issues on revving etc. If it stays dry then I'll ride it tomorrow.

And yes.... I'll sort my discoloured chain out soon!

Cheers!

 

Just ridden it. The re-map has transformed the bike. So much smoother in the lower rev range, particularly at slow speed.

What a great map!