Been there done that - several times. It doesn't tell you that road maintenance occurs in the summer so you come round as corner and find the next mile of track is down to hardcore as they re-surface it, or that a two mile stretch is stuck on lights as they clear away the spring avalanche debris But overall they are superb roads. Locals do the three pass route - Susten, Furka, Grimsel, regularly. Coming from Geneva it's a hundred mile or so blast. Has to be done.
The references to the "Swiss side" and the "Italian side" of the Stelvio are rather confusing. Surely both sides are Italian?
Looks as if you are right! I didn't remember this when I did it. The Stelvio is a spectacular pass, because it is very high, but I don't recall it as one of the very best I have done in Switzerland (and I've done most of 'em - some of them many times). As for the Furka, Grimsel and Susten - they are indeed all great. The Grimsel is probably the fastest. One of the times I rode the Susten was in thick fog. This was less than ideal as the hairpins loom up on you unexpectedly and only the little concrete posts would stop you dropping to your death if you failed to notice. The little concrete posts aren't that useful on a bike - you'd probably go between them. Actually, I think my favourite pass is the Splugen. It has hairpin bends inside tunnels on cobbles - very entertaining! it's also wilder and less travelled than some - very scenic. If you are in the region of the Stelvio, you can have a lot more fun on the Bernina which isn't challenging especially, but it is fast. Brilliant drop down to St. Moritz. It's not strictly true that you can't travel traffic-free. So long as it's not the weekend, the traffic really dries up by about 7 in the evening, as all the tourists go back to their hotel for dinner. I had an epic scoot once on the Bernina at this time in the evening - had it all to myself.
Just back, we did the Ofenpass, forgot how good it was. Stelvio is the most famous but also the most over rated. The south side up from Bormio is IMO much the better part but we didn't touch it this time around, instead we did the Timmelsjoch coming out of Italy and heading towards Austria. Brilliant. If you want spectacular scenery in the Dolomites then search out the Giau pass. Great road with some of the best views when you get to the top.
