Threadlock Or Not?

I prefer not to buy titanium bolts :smileys:

 

Given most riders are overweight, why try and save weight by using titanium bolts when missing out a few big macs a week will do a better job?

If you are insisting on them then I found this

Titanium does have the reputation of being corrosion resistant and so you’d think you wouldn’t need a dab of anti-seize or grease. However, even if you are using a titanium bolt in a titanium frame we would always recommend you use a dab of copper slip, copper grease or anti-seize to prevent any impurities in the titanium from corroding and seizing and to let you achieve the correct torque setting for the bolts.

If you are using the titanium bolts in an aluminium alloy or steel frame, both of which can corrode and fuse with the titanium, you will also need to add a dab of anti-seize to help ward off any corrosion.

 

As above I would not bother with titanium bolts, the saving in unsprung weight will really not have any effect on the rudimentary suspension fitted to bikes on the road.As for threadlock, torque the bolts to correct setting and it shouldn't be an issue.

 

Dunno about titanium, but it's a jolly good idea to use threadlock IMO.
Even the factory do.

 

You dont specify where you are using it but in general threadlock is absolutely essential in many areas.

 

Engine/frame nuts often loosen/fall off.

 

Wouldn't be using any type of copper based grease anywhere but high temperature fastenings ie exhaust bolts etc. Much more suitable anti seize compounds are available.

 

Much talk of anti seize yet the original question was about thread lock; the two are quite different.

I would throw in that not all thread lock is the same, ranging from relatively weak to something akin to epoxy resin.

 

Threadlock by the manf means I need a new tank on my multi. Personally I use in parts that can vibrate out but not ones that are unlikely. Just whizz round with a Allen key every now and then.

 

If the locations are critical i allways torque wrench without threadlock. Or what about lockwire?

 

Because it was intended for fastenings at extreme temperatures. The grease is intended to disappear leaving the copper particles behind. This is fine on bolts holding high temperature steam or exhaust pipes together not so good on fine fitting threads where the copper tends to gall and seize the fastening. And on anything sliding forget it.
Going back to the op I would check on for e.g. loctites website where the correct strength of thread locker would be recommended for whatever application your going to use it in

 

A spot of silicone stops them vibrating loose and makes removal easy.
Steve

 

I always use a paint pen for the critical areas that can't be lock wired
That way, a quick 2 minute inspection will tell you if anything's starting to work itself loose

 

Loctites website may be useful if you take the bolt out and want to put it back. Or you could just buy more bolts with the correct thread lock on it

 

whatever bolts wherever on a ducati it wil probably vibrate loose at some point
get the right grade of threadlock you need for the application it will be used for
if you get a bottle of thread lock you can use it for any bolts you like etc if you get bolts with it already applied you cannot use that else where can you
as for silicone yes I have used that as anti vibration loosening stuff (ie silicone gasket sealer)works well
on things like indicator bolts etc

 

I would say you need thread lock (designed to dismantled if required) as opposed to bearing or stud lock (semi permanent).
Based on recent experience I certainly wouldn’t use Titanium bolts with nothing between the screw and aluminium (either thread lock or anti seize compound).

A mate has a Husqvarna enduro bike with an aluminium swinging arm and titanium chain adjuster bolts, one of which seized and sheared off. Bear in mind they will get moved far more regularly than a brake fastener.
He asked me if I could do anything as I have a lathe, milling machine and well equipped workshop.
In over 40 years in engineering I’ve rarely come across such a difficult job, partly due to difficulty of access but also because titanium is so difficult to work. I had to make a jig to guide the drill to stop it skidding off the broken screw, buy special drills (cobalt) and it took me literally hours of drilling.