Titanium Calliper Bolts - Good or bad?

Discussion in 'Ducati General Discussion' started by comesunt, Jan 11, 2014.

  1. Hi All,

    Well onto the way to getting my road 848 up to ACU spec for the No Limits Endurance Race series....

    Rather than drill my existing calliper bolts to lock wire them, I'm going to get pre-drilled...

    For a few pennies more I'm intending to get Titanium ones; but I've also seen Titanium hollow bolts...?

    Keen to get the hollow bolts, but the I've been reading loads about how Calliper bolts can stretch, so having to ask advice?

    What would you do?

    Thanks,

    Bob
     
  2. Had the, fitted to mine, no problems for me but did t race it. Do they use the, in pro race series?

    Btw hope to be out there myself a couple of times this year :upyeah:
     
  3. You must be into some serious weight loss, if you're going for hollow ti bolts.

    i'd just bought some ti hex head ones that are drilled for wire. Wouldn't dream of using hollow ones.
     
  4. I had the ones FE says above
     
  5. Found some on eThief from the US...

    not all about weight loss ( but every little helps ! ); also heard that they dissipate the heat better; but slightly concerned about them failing when I ned them most??

    Just wondered if anyone else had heard about them; or used them ??
     
  6. I got mine from UK stealbay, see if I can find the link
     
  7. Cant link from ipad, woodfil is co, search this

    M12 TITANIUM RACE BOLTS FINE 1.25 PITCH (DRILLED)
     
  8. Id always opt for quality and reputation of company especially for brake parts.Try someone like JHP for ti bolts from these guys and ask them what they recommend and use on the race bikes they look after.

    Poggipolini Titanium
     
  9. It was a link to the guys store rather than the actual bolts, he does loads of fasteners and pretty good price wise
     
  10. if they come from jhp they would be the dogs bollocks.
     
  11. Pants-Pulled-Down.jpg
    ...:wink:

    Pants-Pulled-Down.jpg
     
    • Like Like x 1
  12. Just bought the ones with the link that FE provided.... Thanks...

    Thought the hollow ones were too much of an unknown entity...

    General advice seems to be torque to original settings and not to use Loctite, so lock wire them in...

    Whilst googling and looking at other forums I was quite surprised how often people change their caliper bolts; some on every occasion, some every other time etc... (because they cab stretch and fail?) I've had my 748 for 15 years, and only changed them once when I swapped them for steel drilled ones?? Must have had the wheels in and out a few dozen times??

    Thanks,

    Bob
     
  13. pro bolt full ones... kiss... they just whey 30 grams or so...
     
  14. if you need a comparison…….look at ti con rod bolts……they don't get changed every time……and go through an awful lot more than the brake ones..
     
  15. I thought they were designed to be stretch bolts and should be replaced every time they're removed and are found to be out of tolerance?
     
  16. My understanding is Ti bolts wont stretch like steel ones will.

    I had a chat with Rick Hackett at JHP just before Xmas about Ti brake bolts. He said he had never known any issues about using them for brake components but you must use a decent anti-seize compound when fitting them as Ti can 'bond' to other metals when in use making them difficult to remove.
     
  17. Usually con rod ones are torque to yield
     
  18. I had a Ti bolt hold the cam chain cover on on a zxr400 which had seized in and it took me a whole day to get it out. Ti bolts laugh in the face off HSS drills.
     
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