How much does your bike weigh and what does the manual say? Development riders will usually recommend a tyre pressure to suit the average rider on oem tyres.It's a good guide.On the gt1000 i run 32f 35r with pr3's.If you run mag wheels and the roads are rough add a couple of psi for low profile tyres.
Cheers guys. Tried this. Front seems good but back seems a bit vague at the transition from half to 3/4 lean. Gonna try with a 32 rear. Will let you know
Densel I spent ages faffing with tyre pressures, preload, damping and rebound until biting the bullet and getting the ride height correctly set up by Rich Llewellyn. Up till then I could never get the rear suspension to feel right. As soon as the ride height was sorted the tyre pressures became obvious. The rear is less sensitive and perhaps allows adjustments to the riders weight from 33 to maybe 36. The front feels off with as little as +/- 0.5 psi from 32 psi for me (12 stone). If you are using the bike on the track I would go down a couple of psi.
densol at the lean angles you are describing when you roll the the rear tyre over on initial turn in,when it feels funny(squirmy?) is there a slightly flat spot in the tyre profile when you look at it closely from the back of the bike? some dual compound tyres will wear like that and it can feel odd when you are at that point between half tipped in and wanting to lean over more.
Hi Steve, all of the above is probably the best answer. Rich stripped the bike right down (his gold service), front end off, forks stripped, swinging arm off, new larger rear sprocket plus the full engine service. Everything went back to where it was supposed to be, so sag, damping, preload, rear height and front fork set up. I noticed that the bike had slightly different look to it as it sat slightly different, it even looked better and finally started looking like the bikes in Falloon's books (a very subtle change from before). It was a joy to ride afterwards, before it was good, planted and all that stuff but needed quite a bit of input to make it do anything, afterwards it all started to make sense.
Had a sc 190 on before which didn't have this problem, or did the dunlops that I have just changed, which were 180. Just checked the tyres after putting them to the 32:34. Went for a 25 mile fast ride in the sun. (road hot). After 15 miles, of good scratching, the back started to feel wired again. Checked pressures again and rear 38, rear 31. By the time I had limped another 10 miles it had dropped to 27. Had a problem with front deflating on last tyre, so now suspecting valve fixing, as I changed valve. I Think the dodgy back end might have been caused by the front tucking in under low pressure. Put front to 34 when hotish, and 36 in the back. Breasted it on the way back,and it felt cool. I'll change the valve tomorrow and see what happens . Are there any problems with porosity? Ps mine is a bip, so is harder as stock.
Densel, £1700 including £600 of bits, it made me think twice about asking for it but you get a proper job at the best price from Rich and you know it is done by someone who cares. At the franchised places they would have charged the same amount just for the engine work which included new belts, top end overhaul and set up with new components as required, new clutch plates and core plus sundry other details including a custom PC3 map, he must have spent 40 hours working on it and he sorted just about everything there is on the bike as went through it.
