I change the oil on my track motors regularly but anyone got any bright ideas on how to avoid this please. Apart from removing the clutch cover and drive then whizzing the pump with a drill before re-assemble and a start up. I really hate those 20 -30 seconds running with the oil light on with no pressure before the pump primes and floods the system, cold oil even worse, never good for beautiful new shells after expensive rebuilds.
Not sure about the v4 on my 959 I disconnect the low tension side of the coils. Spin her on the starter until pressure gets up reconnect and then start
Cheers Clive, thats a good trick, I am still spinning the motor without oil pressure for a good 30 secs without oil albeit slower on the starter and that does not do it
Appreciate your concern regarding dry running bearings. But on all the bikes I've ran as soon as you kill the engine the oil pressure light is virtually straight on. If you are rebuilding an engine any good assembly lube will be more than good enough to cope with the the low rpm from the method described. If you were to drive the pump by the time you get the case back on your oil pressure has long gone
If spinning the motor, as described, do you remove the spark plugs? The much faster spin may speed things up.
Personally I don't.i use this method when changing the oil mainly. I just spin the motor for 3 seconds stop doing it again normally the light goes out on the 3rd attempt.
After an engine strip / refresh I always prime the pump by back-filling from the oil cooler hoses. After an oil and filter change it is plugs out and grounded, and spin it on the starter until the oil pressure comes up. If it takes more than about 20 secs I go to back-filling. In reality, both are probably overkill because the film strength of modern oils is quite phenomenal and could probably get you to the shops and back without any wear.
Thanks everyone, as usual I am over thinking it and slightly paranoid so I appreciate all the suggestions, when I work out a routine I will post it up here.
On most models I can remove the fuel pump relay. This allows the starter to turn on the button without the sparks or injectors operating. So the pump can get get primed first. But on some models, my Supersport included, the relay is under the tank and not readily accessible and removing the fuse for the fuel pump relay also disables the starter relay, so I haven't found a way yet. I'm not familiar with the V4 but it would be worth checking if the sparks and/or injectors can be disabled by removal of a relay or fuse. still allowing the starter to operate
If you're that worried, disconnect the oil feed hose to the oil cooler, rig up a funnel inserted into the hose held and lashed vertically and pour clean oil into the funnel. With the plugs in or out, doesn't matter, mount the rear wheel on a paddock stand so it's off the ground. Put the bike into 3rd or 4th gear. Leave the ignition off. Turn the rear wheel backwards to force the engine to turn in reverse direction. The oil in the funnel will be sucked into the pump under gravity. Keep turning and topping up the oil as the level in the funnel drops. Once 500ml of oil has gone through, disconnect the funnel, reconnect the oil cooler hose, take her out of gear into neutral and press the starter. Instant oil pressure. Works every time.
Hang on a mo, you’re just changing the oil yes? Not stripping and rebuilding the engine. If so, the old oil never fully drains out, all internal surfaces will still have oil on them so it’s fine, surely, just to start it up again, albeit you may want to pre-fill the new filter assuming it’s in an upside down position.
