1200 DVT Water In Oil Or Ambient Moisture???

The earlier Multleys did the same.....ride IT like you stole it for about 400 miles and that will clear it.
Or
Bring it to me for this free service.

 

Is that rust on the plug in photo 1?

A friend bought a BMW R100GS with only about 9,000 miles on the clock. It had had very little use and came with full dealer service history, including a service some 30 miles immediately before it was put away 11 months beforehand. He bought the bike and early the next morning set off for Dover from Liverpool. It was near Milton Keynes when the gearbox grenaded due to rust having formed on the top half of a gearbox bearing that is not completely immersed in oil when the box is filled to the correct level, as would have been checked by the dealer. It was deduced that the moisture in the gearbox oil had done it work, unmolested for 11 months and first time out and used in anger, the bearing failed. Nothing in the box was salvageable, despite Motobins being willing to offer an exchange box, the shrapnel was worthless. New box.

Moisture in oil is not a concern if the bike is in regular use as it gets evaporated, but tends to form again due to condensation, depending on ambient temperature differences and humidity. Do not store a bike with a gearbox full of 'cafe au lait'

 

I would say that's condensation in the oil mate! The only way to know is to go on a long run, probably more than 30 miles and then stop for a cuppa and check the oil, should be cleared by then. Starting it in the garage for a few mins makes it much worse

 

Not just ambient moisture but condensation that forms inside the engine and inside your tank too.
It's important to try and keep short rides to a minimum and go the long way every now and again to allow moisture to boil off.
Lots of people panic when they see the temperature creep up to 100 degrees C but the truth is that these bikes tend to run too cool in our climate and running at or around 100C will do no harm at all and in fact will allow any water in the oil to boil off. Synthetic oil is safe way beyond 100 C.
The fans on Ducatis are set to come on at over 100C and there is a reason for it.

 

Ride it ride hard and don't keep starting it up without riding it and it will go

 

Or if you do start it up without riding it. Keep it running till the fans cut in just over 100C and let the fans keep it there for a wile

 

In cold weather my SF will sometimes show some condensation in the sight glass even after a long run. No emulsion just a bit of fogging. Leaving it to cool with the filler cap off clears it. (Don't forget to put it back on...)
In my youth when I rode only air-cooled bikes and commuted short distances to work all year round they would get thick with emulsified oil. I used to change the oil and filter more regularly in winter and give them a good long run as often as possible.

 

Mine was exactly the same ( sight glass ) seemed to go after aprox first 100 miles of run in

 

Starting an engine for no reason and short journeys are the death of any engine due to this problem.
I knew an old chap who used to start his Ford Escort in the garage every morning for just a few seconds to make sure that it would start if he needed it that day. He had the first replacement engine fitted at just under 20,000 miles.

 

My 2013 Multi looks the same. Recently have been doing short trips as my commute reduced and noticed the sight glass had this coating. My normal run is 25miles each way and I normally run at 4K in top as that keeps me about 80 mph......i'll rag it more often then

Also noticed over last week or so the bike seems to be really struggling at low revs and not picking up cleanly, hunting on a constant throttle and has cut out on me twice tonight in traffic in the sleet and rain ... I took it off Sport and flicked it to Touring which seemed better.. any ideas or is it time to plug it in at dealers

 

Try the old "Italian tuneup" first, blow the cobwebs out.

 

Go for a hard ride to get the oil hot then when you return home take off the filler plug and leave it to cool down. Milkiness should disappear as any water vapour will escape through the filler hole. However don't forget to put the plug back in (like I did! ☹️)

 

Well yes, but the 100 degrees C you are referring to is the temperature of liquid coolant leaving the cylinder head on its way to the radiator. That is where the temperature sensor is situated. The temperature of the oil in the bottom of the crankcase, or in the clutch cover, is another matter. And it's the temperature of the oil which counts for purposes of driving out moisture.

 

True, of course, but it's the best indication we have and the longer the motor is running, the more likely the temperature is to be even throughout. Although, as you seem to imply, it never can be completely even.

 

I've seen this on nearly a dozen multi's including my own 2011 , I was told exactly the same thing as you , ride it harder for longer

 

The answer would be an oil temperature gauge. The water (coolant) temperature will get to the correct level way before the oil does. One way to partially eliminate the problem of the oil not getting hot enough is to use a Laminova oil cooler.
This is a oil/water cooler as opposed to an oil/air cooler. Because it uses the coolant temperature to keep the oil at a more constant temperature, it has the advantage in that it also gets the oil to operating temperature much quicker than a conventional cooler.
Another advantage is that it is smaller and lighter than a conventional oil cooler.

 

An old trick on cars is to blank off part of the radiator in winter.
As long as you don't blank off the part where the fans are, it might work well at keeping the running temp that bit higher.