This subject has probably been covered several times over but my question is what clutch system are you using? below are some of the most favoured STM evoluzione 48 tooth basket & plates Ducati performance EVR CTS 48 tooth basket & plates Your thoughts and opinions as usual
STM and EVR will be the same I think, you're forgetting plenty of others... Bucci Ducati Corse FBF Sigma To name a few, then you have to decide whether you want just a ramp version, ball and ramp, 4 or 6 post, road, road and track or track only. The 48 tooth clutches make less noise, last longer but cost more for plates also
Thanks Freak, it would be mainly for road use. I'm aware of other make available but the ones I mentioned seem to be the most popular amongst ducati owners but apparently not it would seem :biggrin:
Or you could go for the one that Checa uses on the Althea Ducati in WSB...thats made by CNC Racing......
I've fitted quite a few Sigma. Quality is up there with the big names and as it's UK based, spares/plates are easy to get a hold of to.
MPL Tuning I bagged a bargain Slipper from MPL Tuning MPL-Tuningparts: Tuningparts for Ducati, Porsche ... (Welcome Page) - they auction them once a month or so, so keep an eye out. Usually go for £300ish but I got mine for £255... :biggrin: Not fitted it yet, but planning to get the bike serviced and suspension fettled in the spring ready for plenty of track-time next year, so will fit the Slipper then. cheers, Dom
save your cash and spend it on petrol for the bike...honestly slipper clutches are useless on the road
Personally i dont use a slipper clutch, hate em! but i do only ride on the road. i use an ally basket, available on ebay, ally and steel plates, also ebay or ducati std, and an ally centre hub (rear splined part the plates sit on) that is without all the rubbish rubber dampers and steel backing, these are available from Brook Henry at Vee Two in aus, also copies available on ebay these last about ten minutes as the ally is too soft and the plates seem to dig in. this package gives a reasonably quiet clutch that does not slip, is quite light, and a pleasure to use. Just looking for some drilled steel plates now, Nog, do you have any?
I have actually used these and they are hard and do seem to take the hammer better than the std ducati part.
Interesting comments, thanks, the question then I have to ask is who runs without a slipper clutch and have none of the scary lock up stories to tell or is that just down to your throttle clutch control management?
ducati performance one , and definatley would not ride hard without one especially since I put race shift on 6yrs ago, and am prone even now to change down instead of up if I'm not concentrating. DOH!
Riding on the road I'm just not going hard enough to need a slipper - there's no way I'm charging into a bend and braking hard enough to need to bang down a couple of gears in a hurry. My Benelli Tornado has a slipper as standard and I rarely find it being called into action. On the track you're likely to be pushing much harder, braking later and a well-set-up slipper clutch can give you one less thing to worry about as things get a bit 'squirrelly' but for road use it's less of a benefit. Maybe in an emergency stop it'd come in handy, but in that scenario you wouldn't be to bothered locking up the rear as long as you actually came to a halt sharpish!! Cheers, Dom
STM are without doubt very good. there's some good prices around to, but from experience if you need spares they can be more difficult to get. The EVO clutch they do is very nice, but be aware you need their special tool to assemble/service. The debate on whether or not you need one for the road has been running for years. For me, i've used one for quite a while now in my 748 and even make use of the stock one in my M696. It's down to your style and for me it works very well as i ride the front brakes hard in to corners and the slipper just steadies the back end up. Oddly enough, i never used one in the 1098 and could never figure why. Maybe the smaller bikes benefit more because of the more down changes into corners. The 1098 did kinda make you lazy as far as getting the right gear to come out with....
Interesting stuff, I have found my 1098 rather unforgiving if you down shift and dump too early... Nelly, what about the no-evo one (cheaper) is it any good/ball and ramp? I had an old DP on on my 748R, ramp only...Pile of poo that was!
The problem with the ball/ramp type is increased servicing, the bearings need to be lubricated with hi temp grease, I was stripping mine every 2 track days or 1000 miles (road) on my 999R when I owned it, it's not a hard job once you have the clutch holding tool probably 30-40 mins tops
I think if i'de have rode the 1098 into corners like i do the 748, then i'd have needed one. Just made the most of the extra grunt coming out and not changing down as much or as many gears on the way in. No STM will be a bad clutch. It's usually the standard by which others are rated. I'd put EVR, DP and Sigma up there with them. MPL get good reviews, although i've only had limited experience on customers bike and it's not been too good.... after that, there's some shocking stuff out there. Worst i've seen was a cheap eBay job explode....the drum was in fact cast and then machined and anodised. Repeated slipper action ended up in it shattering.. Interestingly, regarding Freaks experience, i find the ball/ramp much easier to look after rather than the plain ramp type fitted to the 748R. I've used several greases now and have stuck with a dry moly based paste for a good few years now with no problems. It works great on the plain ramps to, but they do need re-greasing more often due to the "shear" placed on the ramps. If left, they begin to pick up once the film of grease has been broken down. The main issue with the grease is keeping it in place as the clutch spins. When i service them, it's unreal how much grease is in there and how little there is on the ramps. The paste dries off quite quickly and stays put for much longer. Although i have a conventional 6 post on my 748, if i was in the market i'd go for a conventional 48T STM or Sigma set up. The Sigma is probably a little more money, but i know how much work Neil Spalding has put in to these and theres some nice enginerring touches in there. The 48T setup makes for a slightly smoother action and much better plate wear and is also quieter (did i just say that!!). As mentioned before, being UK based, support is much better.
