Why is it so hard...

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by figaro, Jun 9, 2012.

  1. ...To get the rear wheel off a Ducati?:mad:

    My Multi has the single sided swingarm and 46mm nut, and I have grief every time I try to get the wheel off. My Triumph has exactly the same setup but the nut comes off easily every time. Last time I took it off I torqued it up to 140nm, same as the Triumph rather than the 160 or so that ducati recommend. But I've still snapped the end off my bestest breaker bar trying to get the bugger off:mad: Last time I killed my torque wrench...
     
  2. Tempting fate,I know,but Ive never had any probs with mine.
     
  3. My brother's near-new 1098S was stuck at Snells for a week while they worked out how to get the seized nut out of his bike. And if they struggled, what chance have us mongs got..?
     
  4. So, I'm faced with a choice; either cough up big money for a 3/4" drive socket wrench and socket, or pay less for durty girt ring spanner. But will the ring spanner do the job?
     
  5. Once it's off make sure when you refit it you use some lube on the threads, 916 manual calls for moly grease but copper grease also works fine - that way it'll come off easier next time.
     
  6. Always do, every time. Makes no feckin' difference.
     
  7. Never seem to have a problem myself.
     
  8. I can't see what the problem is. The nut, spindle and wheel are all in good nick, but the bastard thing seizes every time. I'm no nobber, I've been working on bikes for nigh on 40 years, but this has got me baffled, and annoyed.
     
  9. I never have any problem with mine but then like
    every bike I have owned I dont bother to torque
    the rear wheel....havent had a wheel fall off yet
    before you ask.
     
  10. This is fast becoming a favorite topic here. Firstly I'm not supprised you killed your torgure wrench Figaro, but thats a grandmother and eggs style answer.

    So I have a Bergen 600mm 3/4in breaker bar and a 46mm 3/4in socket. The socket I got a an auto jumble for about 2 quid, the Bergen was about 50 quid. An altenative is this Clarke CEW1000 Electric Impact Wrench - Machine Mart which has been recomended by another forum member.

    Apart from greasing the threads, I always put a smear on both mating faces of the nut and the wheel, which helps prevent them picking up on each other as they are done up.

    To do it backup again I've a Draper certified 3/4in torque wrench, which cost me a lot more than the electric impact wrench
     
  11. I wonder if you or someone else has 'stretched' the threads on either the shaft or the nut by overtightening. Not familiar with your bike but if the threads have been deformed this could give rise to your problems with undoing your nut, that and the fact that you are not an 'ex- racer' !
     
  12. You could be right crystaljohn, the first time I attempted to take the wheel off I ended up taking it to a garage, and they had to use some pretty hardcore kit to loosen it. I bought a new nut after that, but I'm beginning to wonder if I should have just kept the old one. At least it 'knew' the spindle, and probably would have caused me less hassle.
     
  13. #13 XxAnthxX, Jun 10, 2012
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2012
  14. Yes - Electric impact wrench is worth a try - "After 35 years of struggling with scaffold poles and using Heath-Robinson type methods to undo tight nuts I couldn't believe just how easy it could be. With the competitively priced Clarke CEW1000 you just literally 'plug and play'. A true life saver" apparently available online for £39 now - mine cost £50 and posted free.
     
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