Ok when you route an exhaust through the frame above the engine, what do you do with the wires, resiviour and breather thingy to stop the melting?
Not seen one done - any pictures? Do you mean the petrol tank breather - if so and it's close use braded hose? I presume the exhaust would be wrapped too. Which bike do you mean, a trellis framed Ducati?
i don't think you have to move anything, there's a picture in the Classic Gallery of the 2 - 2 Zard system.
I think that Zard system uses a breather extender pipe, I remember a discussion about this over on .ms a few years ago. Edit- found it
When I got mine there was an extender in the kit Like #12 photo) to raise the breather. All other wires, etc are just re-routed... Looks a bit messy though as there is very little choice as to routing. If I ever get time / inclination I may rip the loom apart and see if I can move some things along the oil cooler line routing.
Ypu dont need to do a lot to chopping to get the wiring looking neater, I cut the sleeve holding some of it and it's then easier to position behind the frame, you just need patience for that, the sensor wire on the side of the sump casing can be run upwards behind the clutch drum and the only wire I haven't rerouted yet is the oil temp wire in front of the clutch which goes over the belt covers. I may buy a hypermotard oil cooler with its inbuilt sensor and fit that just blanking off whats left, but that all optional.
speak more of this oil cooler ?????any info on the oil line needed to reroute away from the front of the belts?
The oil line is very simple, some folk have two new lines made up, I used a stock OE hypermotard line as it's a direct bolt on and looks like the factory made it that way(the price is about the same for each option but I dislike the red/blue fittings that seem ubiquitous with add on lines and in any case you'll just be left with a spare hose rather than two spare hoses that you'll never use). The hypermotard 1100 has an oil temperature sensor built into it so you can route that wire away from the case to the less visible cooler and just cover the sensor or plug the aperture in the crankcase and not have to look at the last wire to cross the belt covers.
