Still got my 1975 Z1b from being 17, just realised that's 35 years :Wideyed: (well parts of it anyway :smileys
Nasher, the 4 valve motors are more interchangerable with 900 2valve than the 600/750 but the water cooling complicates things a bit. Also crank splines, alternators etc vary between models/years. Be cautious before you start purchasing bits. Put some pics up of what you have and maybe we can advise you of whats required.
I've made a list of what I think I need, although I'm not sure yet what the previous owner is going to be able to find for me: Belt Pulley, from end Camshaft x 1 Both cambelt tensioner assemblies Belt covers and backings, I might leave these off Oil pump assembly including drive gear Complete clutch assembly Starter clutch assembly Flywheel Timing Pickups and wiring Cam covers, 1 x normal, 1 inc the oil cooler mount Neutral switch Below is what I have, including what are believed to be 966 Barrels and Mahle Pistons. The bores look like they've only just been run in with no wear ridge evident at all.
Nasher, whats the letter/number on the side of the heads, I hope I am wrong, but they look like small valve in the pictures? Ian
Excellent, those are the ones you want then. I just thought the size difference on the valves was big. I am sure I have heard of a larger size than the 944, poss 966.
The Barrels themselves as mentioned appear to have no wear at all, and don't even look as though they need 'glaze busting'. The bottom end feels ok as far as I can tell by tying to move the rods and crank in directions they shouldn't go in. I do need to split the cases though as they've been open for a while and anything could be in there. I probably won't use the inner Clutch cover shown as I have another that has already been introduced to my Milling machine for a more open look. Nasher.
All It looks like this weekend I’ll actually get some time to split these crankcases, check and clean the insides. This is a long term project I’m fitting in between other projects, so it will appear a little slow to some. To be a bit prepared I’m going to order up what I know I’ll definitely need before I start, so can anyone suggest anything obvious I’ve missed below. I can already see a chip in one of the gears on the gearbox input shaft, but I’ve already got that sorted. There is no end play at all in the crank at the moment, but there is a small amount of up/down movement. Obviously I’ll have to calculate and re-shim the endplay because of the new parts I’m using. There is a small amount of end play in both gearbox shafts but I can’t feel any other movement. Both ends of the cambelt driveshaft feel spot on. The big ends feel fine, and I don’t want to disturb them unless I really have to. Parts I’ll get in early are: Gasket between crankcase halves Main bearing Clutch side. Main Bearing Generator side. Output shaft Oil seal(behind front Sprocket). Cambelt driveshaft Oilseal (Behind pulleys that drive the cambelts). Does anyone known the actual sizes of the bearings and seals so I can try to get them from a bearing supplier? Also, is there anything I should be thinking of modifying whilst I’m in there to tackle known issues? One thing I will do whilst I have the crankshaft assembly out is to weigh the little ends of the conrods and match them spot on to each other, I’ll be doing the same with the pistons later on. When the crankcases are back together I’ll start more seriously looking to build up both sides. Thanks Nasher.
Had half an hour yesterday afternoon, so stripped the bits left on the outside of the crankcases, but came up against an issue. As hard as I try I cannot get the gear off the end of the crankshaft on the Clutch side. The nut etc is obviously off, and I can see the Key in the slot, but it’s stuck on there solid. I tried a good quality 3 leg gear puller I have, but got to the point where I was pulling really hard on my ratchet and it still wouldn’t budge. That end of the crankshaft is hollow, and I was in serious danger of damaging it by moving up to my 18” breaker bar. I did try some short sharp taps on the end of the puller bolt with a reasonably large hammer whilst it was under a lot of tension but that also failed. This sort of thing doesn’t usually defeat me, but I’m wondering if I’ve missed something, a hidden circlip for example, but I can’t see anything. Next option will be to try and heat the gear up with a torch as best I can to expand it. Any thoughts? Nasher.
I have a Haynes, and have downloaded exploded diagrams of all the engine assemblies from the Stein-Dinse website, but don't have a 'proper' Ducati manual. Nothing I've seen suggests there is anything holding the gear on apart from it being a sliding fit on the shaft and over the key. Nasher
I have 91 workshop manual as a pdf I can email, if you pm your email address. It's in pretty ropey English though...
94 bore is 944cc Same bore and stroke as ST2. 944 aircooled can run a bit hot so get the fueling right.
