Hi, After not touching my 750ss for at least 8 months I've decided to sell up and let someone else have use of it. I went to go and start it today and it wont turn over. I have so far: Checked Fuses - although I can hear the fuel pump running and I think the starter and fuel pump both use the same fuse. Checked starter solenoid - The solenoid is clicking quickly like the battery is low, so I am assuming the solenoid is fine. The current solenoid was new last year as the old one died. Checked all wiring, including earths. I have also cleaned up the connector on the starter motor. I have also bypassed the solenoid, and used a jump lead to try and turn the starter motor, but that hasn't worked either. I have also rolled the bike around incase the starter had seized in an effort to get it moving again. I'm pretty sure the issue is the starter motor, but I wanted to ask for yourt opinions before i shell out the cash for a new one. Thanks, James
Battery voltage needs to be at least 12.5 Volts - if it is 12.3 Volts or lower, it ain't going to work.
It's 12.4v at the moment, I've put it back on charge so that could improve. The lights are all bright on the dash, headlight works as expected
There was a very similar thread in the latter part of last year, but it doesn't come up below unfortunately. As above, plus did the starter churn faultlessly when the bike last ran? As you are at home with the direct application of power from the battery, I would be tempted to try a known quantity car battery as a last test but being very careful to check the heat of the jump starter cables and the starter motor itself i.e. you would only do it for a couple of seconds to start with, particularly if the starter motor /Engine showed no signs of turning.
From what I can remember it worked fine last time I started the bike. I will try the battery from my dads 900ss tomorrow as that starts as it should. If it still doesnt start then that rules out the battery.
Wot Chris says - and I reckon 12.4 volts is too low. When my battery failed; which caused the starter clutch sprag bearing to fail, because it wasn't getting enough punch for it to properly 'engage'; it was only bench charging to about 12.5 volts then dropping to 12.4 volts as soon as the starter button had been used once. If you are getting what sounds like a rapid clattering noise (you say you can hear a rapid clicking from the relay) that seems like the starter sprag itself. If it is, don't rush out and buy a Ducati one - the KTM one is half the cost and is identical by the same manufacturer. IMO it isn't worth the bodge of fixing the sprag with a fork seal spring. KTM part 58440026000
With the SS I had, the topmost fuse gave lots of trouble. The fuse was intact but not contacting well enough with the fuseholder. The cure was to make sure the fuse was nice and flat for maximum contact area and apply some plastic packing in the fuse holder for some extra pressure. If you can get one that fits, an AGM battery is well worth having for its extra cranking power.
My money is on the battery being insufficiently charged. Also check the earth connections and connections to the starter.
If the starter is not turning at all its not going to be the sprag thats the problem. Get a well charged battery and bypass the solenoid, direct onto the starter terminal to see if its that.
The big 30Amp fuse by the battery only protects the reg/rec -nuthin' else. Rubbish - if the sprag doesn't grip, the starter won't turn - it will try, hence the clicking. Take the plugs out and the starter might turn the engine over - put them in again, and a faulty sprag will just cause clicking, especially if the battery is shagged.
Me too - On mine something just clicked rapidly - it wasn't the relay and it didn't feel like the starter was moving at all (hand my hand on it when I pressed the start button) but touching the alternator case removal plate in the centre and I could feel it.
Agreed. If the sprag doesn't grip the starter spins. If the sprag is on it's way out it can grip initially and then slip, making a horrible clack sound. Clicking or chattering from relays is usually the result of a low voltage caused by bad connection or a poor battery. When a load is applied (the starter) the voltage drops so the relay switches off releasing the load, so the voltage rises again which causes the relay to drop out again and on again and out again, etc... If the starter has seized it is very likely to produce similar symptoms due to the ver high current draw.
Check the earthing too - worth a clean-up of the contact points. Mine would sometimes start right on the button then occasionally just do nothing. I learnt that often a tap with a screwdriver onto the solenoid would nudge it into firing up - solution was actually the starter. As has been mentioned it's worth topping the battery up if it will take a good charge. Plugs out for 1st start, if this is what it is since it's lengthy lay-up, would both make it easier for the starting components to indicate whether they has sufficient life in it plus would allow you to get the oil pressure up before it actually fires. Just my thoughts.
