Well finm, certainly tried that with original (now confirmed u/s) ecu. Also tried it with my spare ecu but can't remember if I tried it with Chris's one, will try tomorrow. Think I must have done but tried so much, should have listed it all. Chris, forget question re Hall effect sensor, appears all Ducati ones are simple 2 wire (and shield) inductive type from the diagrams I looked at tonight.
Todays update on the saga. 1) my compression tester didn't fit, will need an adaptor. However, compression seems good both cylinders. 2) Tried turning back wheel with Chris's ecu installed, same effect, sparks once then sometimes may spark rather randomly if continue turning. same as my spare ecu. 3) Tried same as (2) above but using independent power source for the starter motor. ie motor disconnected from bike power source. Same result as (2) above and same as my spare ecu. 4) Using JP Diagnostic software, timing sensor output checked ok and steady with engine cranking following battery recharge last night. However, although I can confirm the timing sensor revs signal, this software is not capable of showing the firing pulse from the same sensor. 5) Insulation (megger) checked all ecu wiring, line to earth and line to line (don't worry Chris, your ecu was off the bike and safely in my garage). All wiring at >20Mohms in each case except for body 38 to ground at 1Mohm and Eng 29 at 3.5Mohms to ground. Consequently Body 38 to Eng 29 at approx 3.5 Mohms. With respect to the body 38 line, this to clarify is the earth line from the start solenoid that goes via the sidestand switch. It also signals sidestand up to ecu to enable spark/injection. Also, switch and solenoid (along with everything else was disconnected). Although this is rather low it, on its own, should not cause a problem as the solenoid requires the earth to enable cranking and the ecu requires it to enable firing/injection. If anything, if it was lower it would enable starting with the sidestand down as well as up. More interesting, is the eng 29 line. But only slightly. It is the air press/temp and water temp sensor ground line to the ecu. The sensors read correct ambient conditions using software. There is a slight, and I mean slight, possibility that some voltage is getting from that line to body 38 but it would really require high resistance at eng 29 lin ecu pin as well as sidestand. Also slight, slight possibility that sensor ground is being affected by the body 29 earth line though I must admit, I thought bike would run in default if the sensors (air and/or water) incorrect. This is really getting to cluthching at straws time. May try and investigate getting my original ecu repaired. If you are still reading this......you probably need to get out more! Tomorrow is another day.
Have a looky, any help? 02 S4 Fogarty Monster, Suddenly No Starter Motor Functionality - Speedzilla Motorcycle Message Forums
Chris, tried 2 sets of stock Champion RA59GC. Final-edition, had a look at that thanks. Different fault but is a coincidence because I have replaced the head bearings just before bike failed so did suspect loom fault in that area. However, did continuity checks and pin/connector inspections and declared 99.9% ok on loom. Now that 0.1% is kicking in following the recent insulation checks. Will revisit that particular area. Finm....... err....thanks......I know deep down no7 is the best way forward!
try your own rpm sensor back on. i have lots of those rpm sensors kicking about here. i might of sent you wrong one. if i did pm me, best keep it amongst ourselves. :smile:
Thanks Mr C, glad you are thinking along the same lines. That made me laugh as I only saw the first pic. Then scrolled down. Will try my timing sensor again finm, but I think I already have with Chris's ecu. Of course, if it does turn out to be that I wouldn't post it here. Of course not. I will just make out that it was caused by not having the kill switch on. Damn...................have I tried that????? Joking aside, had very little time on it today. Reinspected the loom around the headstock, same result as before with insulation tests to wires in that area including whilst moving steering/loom. Tried disconnecting the voltage regulator (though I can't explain why. Just seemed something else to do). same results. I think the bike has heard me because with the airbox off I looked down the inlets whilst making another futile start attempt and it coughed back from the vertical intake almost taking my eyebrows off! I have high hopes for a breakthrough in the next few days as I am borrowing almost a complete elec system. Of course, I could swap things over from my Gixxer, starting with the electrics, engine, wheels, frame, seat, etc etc etc and get on the road. But would I enjoy it?? This thing seems to be going on so long that I am thinking of having a theme tune for this thread.
Happy Days!!!! The bike runs again. Tried another ecu and immobiliser as a pair (with their respective [black] key) and all is well. Out of interest, I have confirmed that if the ecu does not recognise the immobiliser it does indeed give the same problem that I had., ie fires once. The current ecu when using JP Diagnostics also shows the gear engaged and clutch engaged so that is a "red herring". Also it does not display ecu model number or software version, another "red herring". Many thanks to all who have contributed to this thread, particularly, final_edition, finm, and chrisW. But to all, thanks. This experience above all has proved to me what bikers are all about. The long running saga comes to an end........run the music.
isn't that what i said right back at the beginning. . cool saved yer self a fortune on fire lighters too. right that il be £66ph for a shot off the rpm sensor.
Congratulations. From what I understand the bike didn't want to start after a long lay up, now you have changed the ecu and the immobilizer and the bike is working. So, what was the problem, the ecu, or the immobilizer, and what happened to the offending item whilst the bike was not being used?
Sorry Derek, should have put your name on thanks list too, service bulletin very useful. The original fault according to the diagnostics appears to have been the ecu sensing the kill switch and sidestand switch in the wrong positions, after that, the sparte ecu's would not operate with my immobiliser but have not confirmed, but suspect, that had an issue too. Why did the fault occur? I guess it could have been just one of those things (electronics do breakdown) or, possibly due to thunderstorm activity. The bike was outside during the layover period and there was a number of storms in my immediate vicinity during that time. Probably the former is most likely though the latter is something I encounter frequently during my work. Cheers all.
Interesting thread, very pleased for you that you fixed it eventually without resorting to option 7! I hadn't thought of the possibility of thunderstorms being a potential cause of problems, but I suppose with something as delicate as an ecu there is always the chance of extraneous currents being induced into the ecu and damaging the components. I suppose that now you have it fixed you would want to get to the bottom of the problem and check that the original ecu is damaged?
Just looked back to this old thread of mine and noticed that I never put the original cause of all the hassle in the first place. As you know from the the above, the bike not starting was an ECU failure which was finally rectified by changing the ECU and IMMOBILISER as a pair (the clocks are not part of the immobiliser system for this year of bike, I think they are on other years). The original cause of the ECU failure was found to be VOLTAGE REGULATOR intermittent failure. I noticed it was getting very hot, more than normal, it was putting out peaks of over 20 volts. Interestingly enough, I had not suffered from bulb failures. Regulator changed and its been sweet ever since. Thanks again to all who helped with that one which was a while ago now.
