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1199 Smallest Replacement Lithium Battery

Discussion in 'Panigale' started by lukefrs, Feb 11, 2017.

  1. The battery on my wifes ST2 will start the bike at 12.2 volts, but it is a gel and not a lithium.
     
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  2. As has been stated, lithium require a bit of a warm up period with a light on or something. When used, a lithium battery will warm up slightly. In turning on the headlight you're 'exciting' the battery and warming it up slightly. You should be able to watch the voltage actually increase slightly on your dash as it warms for 30 seconds or so.


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  3. I have no lights etc
    Maybe another factor contributing to my problem
     
  4. That'll be it then. You need some form of power drain to warm up the lithium battery before trying to fire it up. Hook up something that you can turn on for 30 seconds or so before starting. Maybe a light or something. Does the dash light up?


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  5. Dash and rear light is all I have and both light up yes
     
  6. Then it's a case of working out how long you have to leave those on for it to warm up the battery enough. Some even cycle the fuel pump 10-15 times to warm it up.


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  7. I'll keep it in Mind if I get any issues again
    As I say though I think if I keep the battery in the house through winter then I'll have no issues.
    Was nice to hear her fire straight away last night
     
  8. Mine comes with a lithium battery as standard + a special charger. It's just died after 9 months [emoji24]and they're not covered under warranty. Hey ho, that's me off the Bolli for a few days ;)
     
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  9. Sure it's not just cold and reluctant?
     
  10. That's me down to a 'T'


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  11. At least you're not old, cold and reluctant... ;)
     
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  12. The battery optimiser has been in save mode for a week, not sure how to test for cold and reluctance. How would you do that?
     
  13. Switch the lights on for a minute or so to place a load on the battery and warm it up, then try starting her up.
    Save mode??
     
  14. Try putting it on a car charger for half an hour, was told by MR todo that, it worked on my lithium battery on my multi, always keep the charger plugged in on my anni as the tracker drains the batter to quick and lithium don't like a steady drain, what charger did you get with your r ?, mine came with a skyrich one and was told they had problems with the Ducati one .
     
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  15. All sorted. It was the cable from the charger to the battery, of all things.
     
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  16. I happened to have the smaller of my two Magneti Marelli lithium batteries in my hand yesterday, so I measured it.
    148mm x 91mm x 64mm.
    That's a MM-ION-5 producing 190cca.

    I know that's a tad big for your available space, and you're somewhat sorted now anyway, but thought I might as well post for the sake of completeness.
     
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  17. I'm getting real bored of offering advice on this
    .... so here is what a leading expert in motorcycle charging technology* has told us.

    "
    BATTERY DATA SHEET

    BATTERY TYPES TO USE WITH OUR REGULATOR/RECTIFIERS ONLY
    Lead Acid - Liquid electrolyte (acid + distilled water)
    Sealed Glass mat types –modern version Cyclon cell

    NOT Lithium-ion (Li-ion) or any other Lithium chemistry
    NOT Nickel Cadmium (Ni- Cd), Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) or any other types now or in
    the future

    WHY ONLY LEAD ACID?
    These have been used for over 100 years for automotive and motorcycle applications.
    Motorcycles are supplied with them from new and like the OEM regulator/rectifier was
    only designed to work with lead acid batteries.

    Note
    Battery capacity Ah needs matching to the output of the charging system so do not
    use a car battery for any motorcycle or large motorcycle battery with a low output charging
    system.

    WHY NOT LITHIUM-ION?
    Requires very careful control of charging current and voltage –constant current with steady
    increase of voltage. Motorcycle charging systems have a wide range of voltage and current
    input completely unsuitable for Li-ion type.

    Lithium-ion batteries do not accept overcharge or either excessive current when charged or
    continued charging when fully charged. This can result in serious damage to the battery
    and consequential damage to the regulator/rectifier, worst case the battery can catch fire
    or even explode.

    Not suitable for trickle charging.
    With many varying environmental conditions which motorcycles are used; it is worth noting
    that Li-ion batteries will not charge below 0°c.
    "

    Basically if your bike was designed and sold by the manufacturer with a Lithium technology battery then that's the ONLY one to fit.
    If it was designed for Lead Acid.... then stick to that.

    I've investigated (as an electronics guy) a Ducati Fire caused by an overheating regulator, the last change being the fitment of a Li-Po battery.

    My work here is done. :bucktooth:
    Over to the ney sayers and other "a bloke down the pub said" type advisers.: unamused:



    * see https://www.dropbox.com/s/f5ekhntoafnc693/Battery Types.pdf?dl=0
    from http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/RR53.html
     
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  18. Don't believe everything that you read on the internet, especially from someone who claims to be an expert as you never know what axe he has to grind.
    Many of us are running with Lithium batteries without any problems at all.
     
  19. images (1).jpg
     
  20. And some have had fires as a direct consequence of fitting them when the rest of the system isn't designed for them. You take your chances if you fit one, a chance I am not prepared to take, but I wish you luck anyhoo :):upyeah:
     
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