1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

The "what Good Garage Floor Paint" Thread

Discussion in 'Ducati General Discussion' started by PeterT, Jan 2, 2017.

  1. Ronseal garage floor paint is an absolute and complete waste of money, mine lasted less than a year after I spent a weekend painting it, having already painted the floor with concrete sealer
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  2. If you leave the bike on a side stand it will eventually mark the tiles. I only put the mats under there so as I've something to kneel on if working on the bikes. Paddock stands cause no problem but do allow you to slide the bikes forwards or backwards if necessary but don't result in any stability issues. Hope this helps....Regards....Topo

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
     
  3. Reference the step, you can buy bevelled edging which I have along the entrance edges of the garage to allow the bikes to easily roll in and out. Go to the Race Deck website and you can work out how many tiles you'll need based on the square footage and pattern or colours you want.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
     
  4. As has been said already, a concrete floor has to have the laitence and any other coatings ground off first. Sorry guys, but PVA isn't a permanent or long term solution if you want a long term system. Acid etching is rarely used in the industry now with environmental concerns and the fact that you'd have to wash it off the floor, which means you then have to wait for it to dry. Moisture content should be under 6% and the temperature for the duration of cure and post cure should be above 5 degrees and ideally above ten. IMG_1488.JPG
    IMG_1474.JPG
    Depending on your budget, a two or three coats full solids two pack epoxy system is the best.

    Remmers, Sika, Resdev all do versions.
    A water based epoxy will be ok, but remember will only leave around 60% of the wet film thickness as the rest just evaporates off.
    IMG_1078.JPG
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  5. Agreed, paint is never a long term solution. If you want the gloss look there are two options, epoxy as above or,
    Another option for a nice shiny look is to polish the concrete floor, this will expose the aggregate and looks good. And by polish I mean industrial machines that polish the concrete to a high gloss.

    The alternative has been covered I think, from Persian to rubber....
     
  6. a man who knows his stuff! Is 20 years since I've been in the painting game and tbh floor coatings wasn't our bag although we done quite a few. Acid etch is quite out dated I guess but was pretty easy and cheap for small areas. The big stuff we did was blasted or ground by others for us. All of that work I did was in Auckland so temps and dry times weren't a prob.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  7. Sorry, just to add. Sika 264 or Remmers Epoxyflex PH are two good quality epoxies. 10kg will do approximately 40sqm per coat.

    Use VIP Quickfloor Express to fill any dings or bullet holes in the floor before grinding. If you're going to hire, a diamond faced grinder, not a carborundum stone version.

    Cheers

    G
     
    • Like Like x 1
  8. how long do you think they'd last on a garage floor? All this talk of paint being no good an that, we did a plant room floor of a cinema complex 30 odd years back in a 2 part waterbased system ( one of the first used in nz) and after 7 or 8 years it was still in great shape. Never had cars on it but very high foot traffic and pallet lifts, ride on floor polishers, skips on casters and what not.
     
  9. The Ferfa guide puts it at Class 3 which should give 3-5 yrs of normal use. Epoxies will still get scratched, but you can always lightly scuff with an abrasive pad and re coat. I've systems in an industrial environment that still look great 5 or 6 years later. http://www.ferfa.org.uk/pdf/FeRFAPublications/SpecGuideCPD.pdf

    A tip would be not to pick a light grey as they tend to fade with UV light and go green and reds and yellows are quite opaque and can look quite thin, I'd avoid them tbh...

    If I was doing my own, I'd go nuts and put a resin screed or sandwich system down that looks much better and will last twice as long. IMG_0708.JPG
     
    • Like Like x 1
  10. who supplies the resin coat stuff,bluehawk,as this is what my gloss white epoxy looks like after 3 years,did start off looking like the pic above but doesnt wear well in a garage
    [​IMG]
    i now think ceramic tiles is the only long trem solution
     
  11. Polished cement.
     
  12. Expensive though at £100-£150 per metre sq.
     
  13. Oh I didn't realise it was that expensive. My dad built a house with cement, glass, and natural looking wood and it was lovely.
     
  14. Just looked at hire costs for the machines and the price for day hire is astronomical
     
  15. Remmers and Sika are two good German suppliers, personally I'd steer clear of white unless you're prepared to coat it every couple of years. Most epoxies aren't UV stable and will tend to yellow unless you want to apply UV stable seal coats. What you have there is a bit of abrasion which will always show on the light colours.
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  16. Can't believe polishing is that expensive over there. Here the per square rate is similar to using cheap tiles. I have used polished concrete on internal and external walkways is multiple malls because it is a cheap option.... Epoxy is not even am option, costs 4x more and has a lot more hassles over large areas.
     
  17. Is that a Ford Escort MK2
     
  18. I know thats what i though but to get someone to do it plus compound etc works out about that for a proper job.
     
  19. yes gp4 tarmac toy
     
    • Like Like x 2
Do Not Sell My Personal Information