Hiya and welcome....personally im not sure on the colour( but then i have a yellow one so who am i to judge lol) but salute you on your choice of bike! They are a hoot! Stick a few more pics up in better light ( with bins )
Right then, well I've picked it up and rode it home. It's still in GP shift so that shit me up when I tried to change up into 3rd. Couple of nigles, the horn doesn't work and the front brake isn't connected to the lights. I'm also a little worried about the wiring, anyone got an suggestions on how to clear all this up?
Need a bit more info to really help, what else about the wiring do you mean? Is the front brake banjo switch connected? It's hidden in the pic? The horn is behind the side fairing on the clutch side, in front of the horizontal belt cover, could check if it's there and connected first? I used a race shift, is a head fook at first but once you've used it a while you'll be ok, alternatively, probably get a standard one off eBay pretty easy. Looks like a button might be missing off your clocks too.
When I got my 999, the front brake lever didn’t operate the brake light. @Derek suggested giving the connector in front of the tank on the right side a wiggle - hey presto
When you remove the fairing lower to get at the horn, you’ll find there’s a metal peg at the front that needs a good tug to release from its rubber grommet. Be sure to smear the grommet with Vaseline or grease to make sure it’s easier to refit and remove in future.
This is why its always good to join forums. Cheers for the help fellas. Where is the button missing from? I struggled the first time but I think i'll swap it back to standard shift to negate any stupid shifting mistakes. I realise the picture doesn't illustrate it well, it looks as though the loom has been opened up. I want to do it properly. Im now coming to the realisation that it was cheap because it had seen some time on the track. It's got some things that need doing but i'll start cracking on at them. Thanks for all the help team!
Defo, there's some really helpful guys on here, and speak to exige when you need belts. Mine have the grey button on the left and also on the right. When I got my 749s it had loads of niggles to sort out, helps with the bonding process more pics would help if you get stuck, being on track isn't that bad as long as it was maintained.
Absolutely. The belts have been done, but I'm not sure how recently. I've seen his start cables that I may invest in, in the future. I'll check tomorrow, might be able to find one somewhere. I'm not so worried about whether or not it was maintained well. It was previously owned by a motorcycle mechanic, so it's all pretty well looked after and documented. What's your opinion on the crash protection stuff that's about for these? Reckon they ruin the look?
Cool. I've been looking at them too. It Might be worth pulling the covers off and looking at the belts for signs of wear, and feeling for belt tension, with the price exige does them for could just replace and Have peace of mind. I haven't got crash protection on my bikes, mainly because I don't like the look, I do have them on the swing arm of my road bike but they're more for ease using my paddock stand. you have to cut the fairing for some types as well which I wouldn't do. My thoughts are, if you only have a small off you can replace or repair the bits, if you have a big hit/off crash protectors aren't gonna save much. Personal choice though really. I'm looking forward to seeing how this one turns out, think it could be a stunner
I'll have to see how bored I get with the cold starts. It doesn't seem so bad at the moment. That a good way of looking at it. Is it a big job? I might buy them and do them at the end of the year if they look good for now. Need a bit of advice from anyone that has done something along the lines of wiring in number plate lights. The bike currently has none, I haven't had the arse end off to have a look if theres a connection on the loom, but can I just splice one into the live line? I'm looking at the in bolt lights to keep the end clean, anyone had any experience with these?
Not a big job, watch Chris Kelly from California cycle works on YouTube and you'll be fine, and use Gates carbon drive app to measure frequency. I was told on another thread you don't need a number plate light, just if you have one it has to work. But yeah you can splice in to rear light wires for live/pos and Earth/negative. I have one of those bolt lights and find the wires fall out, I ve just notice my 2nd one is now intermittent so I'm gonna put a blob of silicone in the end of my next one to help support the wires.
Here's a photo from the front end, including wheelie bins, for those with a penchant for wheelie waste.
Looks like it has a non standard Brembo radial brake master cylinder. I don’t believe these have the facility for a brake light switch, unless it is the adjustable ratio RCS type.
Brilliant, that would explain the lack of brake light. So it's going to be a swap the master cylinder job? The guy I bought it from told me it had an updated front brake, seems like one thing after the other with this thing!
There must be a way to do it. Whatever bike it came from must have had some sort of brake light mechanism. Pressure switch on the banjo??
Perhaps, my thinking is it was bought seperately. Im more aware of how much time on track the bike has done and maybe this is a result of that. I really need a good sit down with the bike. I'd like to keep hold of that master, it's got a good feel to it. Otherwise I'm sure I could use a master from a 1098r maybe?
