Probably overkill but I tend to treat my batteries as service items, even more so on twins where they need a bigger whump to start. I tend to replace the battery every other year and it seems to have worked so far okay
Find the make and model and I'll investigate. Can't see why you'd need a different charge profile.... more importantly the bike won't provided a different one!!!!! Which is why fitting Lipo can be problematic.
That´s the one I have: https://www.ctek.com/products/vehicle/mxs-5-0 All light are on in the pictures to make it look nicer I guess, but in reality, if you press the Mode button several times, you will only have one light on under the bike´s diagram, so the charger is configured to motorbike standard battery. If you press another time, you will have the same light on and the AGM light also on, which means the changer will work with a motorbike AGM type battery. I understand maximum currents, charging steps and their duration might differ from standard to AGM.
Well, I put a Motobatt one on my Desmo about 3 years ago. It's constantly plugged into an optimate, but it looks to have failed over the last few days as the charger is now blinking red more than the usual green. There is the constant draw of a tracking device, but this hasn't affected other bikes plugged into Optimates. this is the 1st battery failure I've had in years. Think I'll put a Yuasa on it.
try disconnecting the charger and reconnecting it. The one on my R32 does this sometimes and there is nothing wrong with the battery. Stand by and active testing. Cold Crank amps just like new. The chargers are computers and therefore make mistakes.
Coolio, I'll try that 1st. In fact I should probably turn them all off and back on for a bit of a "reset", they have been blinking like Christmas trees for months.
Well Pink Pound... our sector is grateful for your financial input. I'm still not convinced of the need for a different charge profile and I'm quite familiar with batteries.... just batteries mind!
I'm not endorsing your recommendation of Yuasa @Exige , you understand. I just happen to have one in the cupboard that I took off my 1098R and I'm too tight to buy something when I have a battery there.
My experience is with the standard speck battery. In my 916 I have used yuasa acid filled which used to last two years before I plugged in a optimate after every ride. This then extended to 3/4 years. You could go with the standard fitment for your bike but i would recommend you buy a optimate and keep it plugged in all the time. It should pay for itself in having a battery in the best condition when you need it, especially cold mornings. Vinny
Good shout @AirCon I turned the charger off, disconnected the fly lead for about 10 secs, then plugged everything back in. It looks like the charger had "got lost" as everything seems OK now.
Funny you should post this. I've just ordered a Yuasa YT12B-BS, based on various reviews and recommendations. I'll report back once it's arrived and I've given it some (ab)use.
Keeping an Optimate plugged in all the time is fine for ensuring good starting - while you are at home. What about when you are touring hundreds of miles away, and your bike is parked overnight outside your hotel (or tent)? The clapped out state of your battery, which was concealed by the Optimate, comes to light only while you are on your travels. Personally I prefer to find out if a battery is losing its mojo while I am home in my garage, not while I am travelling abroad.
So @Pete1950 I'm interested (as an electronics engineer) how you'd go about this? What makes you think an Optimate or any other battery tender would hide this?
Awwww, you've humoured our forum self appointed expert, you silly billy. I was going to reply along the lines of the Optimate having an early warning function of battery failure built in, but couldn't be bothered to engage him. God damn you @AirCon
