I spoke to the (now departed) service advisor regarding the bill...and emailed the service manager... In hindsight I should have asked to speak directly to the boss... Anyway, all well that ends well. I haven't crashed it and killed or badly injured myself... Big repair bill is a bit of a shitter, but shit happens... Not like its the first Ducati engine to f#&k up on me!
Most of the parts are now in. After searching round I found new parts that dealers had in stock and selling off at a decent discount compared to the list price.... Might as well buy a full 70mm system for it!
Just wondered if you were going to check the bottom end out on that cylinder? Even though the damage to the original piston doesn't look to bad, that's what I thought when my engine did the same, which was then followed shortly after the work being done, by the crankpin bearing giving up (admittedly on track)
Yes will be checking everything throughly... Just getting the parts I definately need as and when I find them.... Also means I don't have to pay for everything in one go!
No!... I've spent enough on engine repairs this year...it isn't going to be a track bike, and only an occasional use bike...
Wise choice. OE pistons absolutely fine for any application During the rebuild of mine I was reliably advised not to be suckered into Pistal HC this, lightened fly wheel that etc. The 1098R lump is a masterpiece and plenty pokey enough. And mines track only. Moto Rapido rebuilt mine and it's been staggeringly strong ever since. All I had done 'extras' wise was rebuilt and super finished gearbox (excellent btw), heads polished/ported, squish set slightly lower.
i completely disagree...its a fragile nightmare, probably like this engine the ti valves are very prone to pulling their heads off, the gearbox is weak and won't take a QS very well. the engine doesn't need the weight of the std flywheel theres a gain to be had there easily, without going really low down in weight. The pistal pistons are stronger than the std ones and the omega ones, with better bridge support under the gudgeon pin. Gearbox wise a 3 dog corse ratio is the way forward... just saying..
I did the same with my 996 sps motor, all standard inside just blue printed and balanced with ported heads and and every componant super finished.
blue printing is a much overused term and i would say not relevant. Balanced and ported yes of course, why wouldn't you it makes sense, but by machining away material to balance and port you are in effect not blueprinting. Super finishing the std gearbox is a bit like polishing a turd
I guess we'll have to agree to disagree then. You pays yer money and makes yer choice and all that. The 1098R tearing itself apart occasionally (rare tbf) can perhaps be attributable to it's higher state of tune. So what's going to happen if you tweak it more?? The reliability margin lessens, that's what. It becomes even more twitchy and temperamental. A lightened flywheel will help it spin up quicker but more snatchy on pick up. Not what you want picking it up after the apex. Also, compression is huge as is. Up the compressions and your going to be dicking about with fly leads and donkey motors. Fuck that... I agree a bit regarding the gearbox. I regret not going Corse or Nova when I had the chance. But no biggie, so far so good.
^ totally agree as regards raising C.R. even further on 1098R, regardless of the superior piston material/construction etc, and to be fair Andy, that’s all your opening post mentioned
ive got pistals in my 1098R based motor build and a lightened flywheel amongst other things and that cranks over fine ( i add a slave battery on anderson connectors to start when cold) and it idles well.. however i do agree with you hc can be a bit of a bitch, especially for a trip to boxhill and so on, my 999R motor with 1098 crank was/is hard work ask Simon who has it now gearbox wise ive got a BSD 3 dog super finished corse ratio probably the best thing i put in it!!
you learn something everyday - do you spend a lot of time at boxhill then? "1098R based motor" reminds me of when a dear little kid says he's five and three quarter years old - bless
My only experience in tuning a vehicle was my morgan a few years ago, stroked it out to 4.6L, ported heads, ported the Plenum chamber intake, shortened and ported intake trumpets, fast road cam, high flow fuel injectors, lightened flywheel, strip and re-built the gear box, sports exhaust manifold, de-cat, 6 piston brake calipers with much bigger vented discs, adjustable gas shocks, anti-tramp bars, Panhard rod etc etc... And my first thought driving is was "I don't enjoy it any more than I did before" ... So my advice for tuning road cars/bikes is to not bother..... It's really only worth it if you are racing. Or buy something that someone has already spent THEIR money on tuning it up ( I am a tight Yorkshireman after all!).
