2019 Hypermotard Mods

Discussion in 'Hypermotard' started by Pard, Feb 27, 2019.

  1. 1. Sport Mode

    2. Breaking in the machine so varying throttle setting and keeping it below 6K RPM. Aggressive within those limitations.

    3. Tank is 3.8 Gallons and I put in 3 gallons at 100 miles, so I would guess 125 miles is a safe stretch.

    4. Manual says about 20 miles once light goes on. .8 Gallons at about 33 mpg (The actual gas mileage I am getting) is 26.4 miles till empty once light goes on, but if you unport the fuel intake you will stall the engine so I would say 20 miles once the light goes on is legit.
     
  2. Great info, thank you.

    So in urban mode, how many total miles would you estimate?
     
  3. No idea. Have no tried that mode yet. Most likely never will :)
     
  4. Thank you.
    The reason for me asking is because I will be commuting 120 miles to and from work, and am hoping to make it without having to refill in between.
    I am hoping to use sport mode if I can??
     
  5. Sorry for all the questions, but since you are the only real owner that I have heard about, I want to pic your brain a bit.
    I have read many reviews, but all being from track testing on the SP. and all are positive reviews.

    On Sport mode, how easy does the front end come up with the pre set wheelie setting?
    How does it actually work? Does it just drop the front end once it starts to go up? Not sure how this is supposed to work.

    Appreciate your time..
     
  6. No wheelies yet. Breaking in the machine and keeping the RPMs below 6K.
     
  7. Installed the Evotech Sliders.

    Support the engine from underneath when you slide out the OEM bolt and slide in the Evotech bolt.

    Once the OEM engine bolt moves out of the hole on one side, the engine can sink within the frame and lose alignment with the frame holes.

    To prevent that, you drive out the OEM bolt from one side by inserting the Evotech bolt and driving out the OEM bolt.

    IMG_1200.jpg IMG_1201.jpg IMG_1202.jpg IMG_1203.jpg

     
    #47 Pard, Mar 11, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2019
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  8. I'm also really curious about the anti wheelie function. I'm hoping it just limits the wheelie angle to prevent flipping... i.e. Making mere mortals total wheelie gods! Fingers crossed
    On mpg: don't forget that tight engines need loosening up before they reach efficiency. I'm sure there's another 3-5 mpg there once she's freed up a little ;)
     
  9. IMG_1224.jpg Installed Zeta Pro Guards with integrated LEDs on the right side.

    They require the extended brackets to clear the master.

    Fit on the bar end is not perfect due to the torque placed on the natural bend of the aluminum guard bar, required to fit the hyper. I will play with that a bit more for a more perfect fit.

    The LED directional indicator is not even close to being as bright as the stock. Not a deal breaker for me.

    The actual plastic of the guard is glossy black and not pretty to look at. I have some Ducati decals on order which I will apply to dress it up.

    Overall I am happy with it because it should offer actual crash protection. The structure is solid and should save components in a slide.


    IMG_1212.jpg IMG_1213.jpg IMG_1224.jpg IMG_1217.jpg IMG_1225.jpg IMG_1227.jpg IMG_1228.jpg IMG_1230.jpg IMG_1233.jpg IMG_1234.jpg IMG_1235.jpg Gap.PNG
     
    #49 Pard, Mar 13, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2019
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  10. I took the Hyper on some spirited riding yesterday and noticed something. The DQS down between 6 and 5th requires a really, really substantial force to engage, (at least on my bike and at least during break in.)

    Several times throughout the ride I experienced "false neutrals" when DQSing down from 6th to 5th going fast into corners. When I realized I was between gears, I held the clutch full in and pushed it back into gear, again, and all was well until the next time it happened.

    No doubt the failure was my inadequate force on the lever and inadequate travel to securely engage the lower gear.

    The force required to downshift between 5th and 4th and 4th and 3rd, etc is much, much less on my bike so far. Never failed to engage, so far. Never had the problem with any upshifts.

    Just an FYI.

    The below video explains what happens when a downshift (or upshift) fails to engage.



     
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  11. I found it hard to reach the rear brake toe piece to apply adequate braking force.

    The stock lever has some limited height adjustment. I maximized brake pedal height using the set screw, and I turned out the brake master pushrod a full 7 turns to max the engagement of the rear brake to occur as soon as possible with pedal depression. (see pics )

    I went the woodcraft eccentric folding toe peg route to modify the brake lever.

    https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/...ding-toe-piece

    This mod was pretty easy to do. It allowed me to find the perfect position for the toe piece, and will fold rather than bend or break in case the bike goes down.

    The woodcraft toe piece is mounted with a single bolt through the brake lever. It also has a positioning pin, so in addition to cutting off the stock toe piece and drilling out a primary mounting hole, I had to drill another small hole for the positioning pin.

    Looks OK and solved my ergonomic issues. The toe piece is now both closer to and higher up in relation to the foot peg.

    I removed the passenger pegs and peg mounting frames and replaced the front pegs with the passenger pegs.

    Tricky on the right side because the clutch case prevents the pin from coming out.

    IMG_1295.jpg IMG_1279.jpg IMG_1288.jpg IMG_1294.jpg IMG_1298.jpg IMG_1268.jpg
    IMG_1269.jpg IMG_1271.jpg
     
    #51 Pard, Mar 17, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2019
  12. Don’t like the Lic plate holder. Looking for the tucked version
    Plus, it makes the bike look like crap.

    The tail tidy lights look great, but be warned on putting the license plate next to the wheel. I almost killed myself on a bike because of this. On the freeway, something hit the plat and pushed it into the wheel causing me to lock the rear wheel before the plate luckily broke. How I was able to save it that day is still a surprise to me.
    Never again will I have the plate in that llocation.

    I’m thinking that maybe putting the license plate vertically just above the rear wheel may work. The plate won’t fit horizontally due to the double exhaust.
     
    #53 jose, Mar 21, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2019
  13. I have the nrc tail tidy for the 821/939 hyper that im hoping to modify to fit my 950sp but wont know if itl work until the bike comea and i can see haw the standard tail piece is mounted
     
  14. Please let me know if and how you are able to modify it with pics. Will be great to show, thank you..
     
  15. What about heavy duty double sided tape for the plate with a stick on light strip since you can’t put brackets in that area.
     
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  16. Test riding a Hypermotard 950 (not the SP) on monday.

    I am falling in love with a lot of high quality components and the style of this bike.

    On paper the 2 things that might be dealbreakers for me are:

    A) seat height - I have a 32inch inseam.
    - is there likely to be a lowering link option for this?
    - does there look like there is a way of dropping down the forks on the triple tree to reduce seat height a bit?
    - I may be ok but it's nice to know that if it is too tall I could fall back to one of these options.
    B) luggage options.
    - Is there any luggage options available, and if not can we expect to see some in the coming months?
     
  17. Do you guy's have any updates on MPG you are getting? How many miles per tank are you getting ? and in which mode ?
     
  18. Hi,

    I'm picking up my SP tomorrow and have had another sit on it today, I am only 5 feet 9 1/2 inches and although I can't put my feet flat on the ground I can certainly get both feet down quite comfortably (enough to make me feel stable) The SP is also 20mm higher than the standard model.
    Hope this helps.
     
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