The callipers need to come off so, ergo, does the Roadlok. Other than that there were no real issues other than supporting the front wheel off the ground. For that I have a stand that engages with the hole though the headstock, works great requiring the removal of the plastic panel secured by three screws. Changing my own tyres means I get to balance the wheels and choose which side the weights go on
I’ve not needed to remove callipers previously to change the tyre, that’s why I asked about them. I suppose I’ll find out when the time comes.
With the S model, which has bigger diameter disks than the base model, getting the callipers off is something of a struggle. Use some Gaffer tape to protect the paint on your rims and having removed the calliper retaining bolts (and the Roadlok) you'll need to rock the callipers on the disks to push the pistons back, this will give you enough clearance/movement to remove the callipers from the disks through the limited space available. There's not enough room to just lift them off the disk. Guess that's a problem in removing the front wheel if you don't know about it...
Removed my roadlok , the key was a pain in the arse , had to keep cleaning it out to get the levers to align. Wasn’t what I thought it would be for the price !
Hello Boomer, So i just received the Roadlok via post - which spacers did you use? It's a lot of them to pick from. Also - which bolds did you use? I received two pairs. If you can tell me the length in cm of both the spacers and the bolts it would be highly appreciated. Thank you
Hi Marcello Sorry I can’t remember now, but it’s a bit trial and error tbh, you will know when you get the correct set up, because it functions smoothly when locking, just make sure the bolt doesn’t bottom out in the fork leg, and it torques up correctly
As boomer waits, trial and erro. Find a hole in the disc, outer edge one, have it in the right place and add a spacer until the hole looks rightly placed. Loose fit bolts so they need a final nip and test.
I thought the problem would be the other way around, make sure the bolts are not to short, so you can torque it up correctly ? If I remember, the thread in the calliper bracket goes all the way through.
The thread in the calliper bracket is a blind hole, so to long a bolt could bottom out, not securing the brake calliper correctly, or even worse cracking the fork bottom which forms the calliper bracket, likewise you are correct to short a bolt is also not recommended Once you get the correct spacer for the locking pin to work the correct size bolt should also become apparent
Had my one on the bike since the big group buy & it does require a good jet-blast occasionally. And then oil spraying & testing once the bike is cleaned. But I don't regularly clean my enduro & it still works. You just got to be lubing the device after rain or bike wash.
shame I've just refitted mine, sounds like I should have added a bit of grease or something to the mechanism
Graphite lock powder, better than oil or grease guys, oil and grease will attract road dirt especially were it is mounted Loads on e-bay
Hello guys, so yesterday a friend came to visit and I asked him to have a go at unscrewing the bolts - he managed very well with just an Allen key (which means I am not strong enough ). It literary took 5 minutes to fit the lock including the spacers, I think I got quite lucky with picking the right spacers straight away. The pin now locks perfectly engaging the holes in the middle row of the disk Great solid product!
Great job, Thought you was making hard work of it Anyway glad you got sorted and are enjoying the lock, it is a great piece of kit
Late to the party, I’ve removed my Roadlock from my XDiavel, about to place it on my Multistrada 1260S Grand Tour. Does anyone on her, who has fitted one to a MS 1260S remember which bolt and spacer to use? Of course I’m paranoid about threading my new bikes Caliper and forks too. Jaysus!
I did the same. Had one on my 1200 dvt lock got jammed up and could not trust it So removed. Now just carry a big disk lock
