The problems of living in a flat. That’s exactly what D1 does, damp clothes all over the radiators which aren’t on until they get home. I’ll have to explain to her again.
I don’t have that and I air dry my washing I crack open windows when I’m cooking and bathroom window is always slightly open If you have wet washing around and no heating then blast it on of course your going to get condensation as cold meets warm Consistency is key as is anything else in this world
Ignoring your basic thermostat inaccuracy, It's called Hysteresis*. Current wisdom is to install the room stats in the living rooms and bedrooms.... thereby having multiple sources for demand and different room temperature. Your Gym might be 18°C, while the cinema room is 21°C. If any room needs heat then the boiler is fired and valves diverted. Then have a radiator valve on each rad to control each room individually (stops it getting too hot, but unless it as a room stat it may get too cold). To complete a modern control system you should have an external temperature input to the boiler brain. This can be a temperature probe sensor or Internet weather prediction. The boiler then varies the heating water circuit temperature to suit the external (garden) temperature. E.g. on the first chill of autumn it may set the heating water to 30°C. While on the hard frost of a February night the heating water is set to 70°C. The values for this equation are determined by the insulation value of your home. More complex systems use P-Banding to incorporate the mass of the building to reduce under and overshoot of the target temperature. This varies the water temperature depending on how close you are to the desired set point. Hysteresis is required in a heating system either by poor thermostatic controls or software. Typically this is a degree or so and it prevents quick cycling of the boiler On/off. Imagine it was just 0.01 of a °C.....then the boiler would be switching on/off every few seconds.
All these posh new fangled thermostats, pah, can`t beat a good old fashioned northern thermostat. Two settings, "mooar coyl ont` fire" or "gu steady, coyl int` free tha norrz."
Not for at least three generations around here, but the further north you go the morlock gene is more obvious
I have recalibrated the existing unit by pulling the dial off and replacing it so the dial reflects a similar temperature to that displayed by thermometers places right next it. The hysteresis of this relatively new unit is actually much less extreme than that of the old Satchwell unit that it replaced back in the Spring, when the plumber upgraded our old tank. So, fingers crossed, SWMBO seems to be placated - for now...
Best to re-calibrate it a couple of degrees high - worked in my daughter's bedroom a few years ago, stopped being a sauna even when set to 25 degrees
Good luck with your modification @oldrider . The old Honeywell thermostat had a 3 wire connection. 1. A live supply 2. A Neutral 3. A switched live to trigger the boiler to fire. The unit will still work with the neutral not connected/disconnected, but will give the symptoms you describe. I have often seen the thermostat connected up with #1. . only- this makes it slow to react to temp changes! Typical thermostat connections In all cases, the thermostats is a simple switch, connecting a switched output to live when heat is required. Where the thermostat contains an accelerator heater or electronics, a neutral connection is also required. Three types are shown here. The first is a simple 2 wire thermostat. When heat is required, the two terminals are connected together. This could either be a mechanical device, or a battery powered electronic one. The second is a mains powered mechanical thermostat with accelerator heater. The heater is switched with the thermostat and improves the thermostat response time. It is important to ensure the L and SL terminals are connected correctly - if reversed, the heater will be powered continuously. The third is an electronic mains powered thermostat. The electronics require continuous power, and connect the L and SL terminals together when heat is required. On some types it is necessary to install a link between the two L terminals. © Copyright 2008-2019 Flameport Enterprises Ltd - - Terms & Conditions - Contact details - Author: John Ward
