Almost certainly will struggle to start with just 12v. Should definitely be nearer 12.7. It’s not going to be fuel or anything more serious like a regulator issue (which is common on these bikes) with the info you’ve given & with such low mileage, it’s almost certainly just that the battery isn’t happy being left alone for a while. Get an Optimate charger, you’re going to need it anyway. Cool mum fella!
12.7 volts is not the power available from some super battery, it's the voltage you should expect from a normal 12v battery in healthy condition and fully charged. Yuasa AGM is best bet. @Exige will tell you exactly which one to get and supply you with a cable kit as well
That's just taking the mick! £580 is a bit more realistic and avoids he other person from being ripped! I'm more generous and would do £590 for a fellow forum member!!!
Although unlikely, I think you are brave to rule out the Regulator, we know it's not fuel now only because Cam has told us it's not old, and don't forget he has tried starting with additional battery power so again, brave to think it's almost certainly the battery - only my opinion, I hope it gets solved one way or another.
You say the Battery was new 2 months ago. Nowadays Batterys have the acid already in them, It could have been standing that way for some time. Before using it needs a good charge. Starting a bike in the garage and running for 10-15 minutes will just flatten it over time. Take the battery off and take it to your mother's and get it charged up fully. While it's off get it tested somewhere to see if it's in good condition Starting the bike takes a lot of energy from the battery and if its towards the flat side can deprive the ECU of enough power to stop that operating properly preventing it starting Even if the reg/rec was knackered which I don't think is the problem with a good battery it should still start
AS previously mentioned take the battery off and keep it connected to the Optimate. Starting the bike once a week does it no favours. I had always done this in the past and years ago I had an SP2 which I couldn’t ride for a year due to health reasons. I used to start it every week and warm it up as I thought it was the correct thing to do plus it sounded beautiful.... When I could finally ride I found the clutch plates had rusted together due to condensation caused by me starting the bike up. I wish I still had the SP2.
I had a similar issues with my 1098s. bottom line is there isn't enough juice to turn the starter AND supply spark to start the bike. there are a few ways this can happen as other have suggested above (weak battery, poor connections /cables etc). In my case it was corroded contacts internally on the solanoid that just wouldn't pass enough current unless the battery was charged 100%. i know some frown on this but you can bridge/short the solenoid contacts (with an old spanner or pliers) if the bike starts easily when bypassing the solenoid (as mine did) then this could be your culprit.
I cant get power to my garage, not possible. Only can at my mums, but then my bikes there and i cant use it. She said get a generator for my garage but i ain't having one of those on 24/7 lol
Maybe so, but regulator issues usually manifest in other ways & as others have said with a fully charged battery wont usually affect the starting of a 1098, just its operation. Erratic Dash lights, indicators, fans not cutting in & from experience, a burning plastic smell often indicate a failed/failing regulator. But sure if all else fails I’d not absolutely rule it out.
I'm not sure what type of battery the 1098S has but my old SSie has a huge Yuasa which came with acid in separate bottles. It's survived quite a long time with the bike being ridden shamefully infrequently, but I always charge the battery (with an Accumate as it happens, until its light goes green) every week or two. I'm lucky enough to have a garage with power for that. It would be a pain with the SS, but one could always consider running a pair of batteries, having one in the bike, swapping and charging (in the house)regularly.
I Think that might be Cams only answer if he cannot genuinely get power to his bike. I certainly wouldn’t want to leave my 1098 over winter without being on a charger at least
My mate bought a small solar panel and hooked it up to an Optimate as he got fed up of buying a new battery every spring. He also charges an old car battery and can run a light off it. Something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Portable-W...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
This is the battery i bought, it is below 12.4v so i will charge it (multi meter averages around 11.5v so thats likely the issue). Thanks for the ideas of a solar panel or having another spare battery to swap out, will look into that for sure!
Ducati upgraded the battery on the 1198S SP and R from 12 to a 14 code - you can also get a high cranking amp Yuasa now too.
If you charge that battery fully you should have no problems, above 12.7 volts will be good. The problem you have is keeping it charged and that would be the same with a bigger battery. Either trickle charge with solar or take it off every 2 - 3 weeks and recharge
Yes YTX14-BS (you just remove the packing pieces in the battery box as Ducati did in the later models) but I can't remember the high cranking amp version someone mentioned. Without decent cables though you will still have a weak link in the starter circuit.
You cannot upgrade with cobbled together cables unless you cut the Battery Box up for access - but you can buy expensive upgrades from the States, or Aero Space Quality cables from me, discounted too if a Forum Subscriber
