That looks like the drum is loose, watching the bottom spring movement against the brake lever, unless it's the camera moving.
Looking with better eyes - agree with @Birdie and @final_edition - the spring bolt heads are definitely moving laterally when they should not as they are tightened to the drum which should not move. Good spot chaps!
Remove your 6 springs and take off the pressure plate. This will expose the big drum nut. Check that it is not loose. You will need to remove the clutch plates to tighten it back up, along with a clutch drum holding tool.
All, That was my very first presumption - and the reason why I removed the plates! I checked the LARGE retaining nut and it was tight, (I believe it should be 200N/m), and no matter how much I pulled there was no discernable play? But there is some play as we can all see!! Is this standard 'end float' I wonder? Certainly strange and I don't want to divert time and energy in the wrong direction so I may still try another mc first and then apologise to you all, emphatically, if I am proved wrong of course!
Could you tell us more about the 4-5mm of end float or play despite a tight clutch nut please. Is the whole basket complete with plates free to move 4-5 mm??
Many thanks to you all for your responses- they are all gratefully received and apologies for my lack of response during the past few days - work has had to take precedence unfortunately!! I am also looking at replacing my trusty Pug307 SW Estate with a Merc C or E Class Estate - so you can see that I am a REAL glutton for punishment Anyway . . . In response to 'Old Timer' - There is a discernable 5mm of 'play' in my clutch basket - but you cannot move it by hand - it will only move with the extra force of the slave cylinder. I was going to try another master cylinder today, (non Brembo), but as there is movement in all the range of the clutch lever, (and no indication of air), I decided to grind down an old Allen Key in order to make a small 5mm spacer and I placed this in the end of the slave cylinder in order to force the push rod out 5mm to take up the 'play'. This seemed to work as the clutch was more decisive than before so I am now siding with the wisdom of the Forum members in suspecting 'play' in the clutch basket assembly? I would have thought that if it was loose it would be possible to move it by hand - but this is not the case as the play is only taken up by the force provided by the salve cylinder. I will now bite the bullet and remove the basket but suspect I may need a 'lock tool' to make the job easy? It is as though there is a very strong spring tensioning the basket which is masking this end float - I believe that the basket bolts onto the cush drive assembly - could this be behaving like a spring I wonder - if the cush rubbers are compressed as the basket is tightened? Very strange as I have not had any problems with my previous dry clutches on both my 916 and my 999? As with all faults - it will turn out to be something very simple and agricultural- once I have found it!!!! Thanks to you all once again for your support - take care out there!
you diagnosed correctly right from the start Martian, i've got no idea how the 5 mm-ish movement visible on spring end caps* is happening, but will be pleased to learn when you eventually find it. As you say, it must be a "wood for the trees" thing, most odd. *equating to drum movement.
never stripped yours with cushdrive but looks similar to that fitted to earlier belt 2v, just a hunch, but wondering if drum (10) has become loose on cushdrive hub (7), enough to move separately from it? managed a closer look on vid below (if the same).
Going all the way back to your early posts wherein you reported the 'buzzing' - that sounds very much like a stream of tiny bubbles from squishing air to me.... Another thing to check is the free movement of the actuating rod - the 'tunnel' it inhabits traverses the heart of the engine where intense heat bakes an evil mixture of engine oil mist, chain lube fling and friction plate dust into a very hard concretion that can build up and choke, or hamper, the actuating rod's full/free movement. Even if this is not to blame for your issues, it is worth checking the status of what lies within and cleaning it out in order to avoid having to do it on a petrol station forecourt when your clutch disappears coming into Mold after a spirited ride through Snowdonia, for example...... Good luck
Confession Time!!! You were all correct right from the start - sincere apologies for dragging everybody around the houses - twice!! In summary . . . . As I was not at work today, (and as the sun was shining), I decided to sort my issue out once and for all! And before I go any further I will offer my profound apologies to the majority of forum members who all said it would be the clutch retaining nut as that is what it was! In my defence, however, I do not believe that my clutch is standard, (but could be wrong with that assumption too), as it is the 6 ball bearing slipper clutch with standard plates and, (when I semi stripped the clutch last week), I did not have a 32mm socket to check the retaining nut - but it appeared tight and would not turn by hand! I had my 1/2" drive socket set with me, today, and as soon as I put my ratchet on the nut it turned freely, (confirming the conclusion reached by all forum members), but I decided to remove the entire basket assembly to give it a thorough clean. This is when I noted the 6 ball bearings and the slipper ramps moulded into the basket castings! The entire assembly, (and the clutch housing), was surprisingly clean and required minimal attention although reassembly was a touch tricky, (keeping the 6 ball bearings in their respective locations), but I simply used two clutch sprins, collars and bolts to fix the two assemblies together, (before offering it back onto the drive spline), and once the retaining sprung collar and nut were refitted I could then remove the two clutch springs and bolts and then fit the plates and the final clutch pressure plate. I do not have the clutch holding tool so I have tightened it as much as I can, (whilst the bike was in gear), and I have ordered a laser holding tool and will tighten fully when it arrives! Just a few pictures: - https://www.dropbox.com/s/zkdjh8mjt7hvi1s/20200506_130350.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/7gxiz6b52gbbz6l/20200506_130354.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/5ugrkr165jh9wpx/20200506_130358.jpg?dl=0 And I have absolutely NO pretentions to be Rossi, (although I am the first to admit that he is a brilliant rider and has done a great deal to bring fans to the races - the exact opposite of BT Sport unfortunately), but this was the colour scheme on the bike when I bought it! https://www.dropbox.com/s/yvr5udvo66bkt3v/20190214_133551.jpg?dl=0 I will now take myself to the naughty corner and deprive myself of any beer for 24 hours and, only then, will I consider myself suitably chastised!! Many thanks, once again, for your support - I hope that I can provide assistance to others at some point! Take care and stay safe. Martian.
Hey, we all make mistakes. Let he who is without sin cast the first stone...etc. Good to hear you worked out what the issue was and that you have a slipper clutch. When you reinstalled the hub with ball bearings - the bearings need a bit of grease to hold them on the ramp. Then, when the drum is put onto the baseplate, the balls stay where they are and the assembly can be installed onto the splined shaft. The spider spring also needs a dab of grease on the ends to allow it to move freely otherwise it will crack in time. You need that clutch holder as the centre nut torque on a 1*98 is around 240Nm if I remember correctly.
RickyX, Many thanks for the additional info - yes 240Nm sounds right as I believe Luke quoted that during a discussion on another post - pretty tight!!! I will ensure that the spider ring is greased once I have received the tool as I will remove the nut, (in order to grease the spring before torqueing it up). Regards, Martin.
Don't forget that the plates go in a different order with a slipper than the standard clutch, start with a friction plate NOT a steel otherwise you will have the steel dropping off the back of the drum and jamming. Steve
Birdie, Many thanks for that very important tip! I have re-installed the plates as I removed them, (fortunately), starting with a friction plate and the very last plate, (on the outside), was a metal ring plate. The only downside to the segmented basket being movable as it leaves sufficient gap for the ring pate to 'drop off' the hub! I found this out when playing with the mechanism whilst it was off the bike - making sure all 6 bearings were where they should be! Just waiting for the lock tool now - and a gallon of locktite!!
