I had watched these before and they are most enlightening. I think he said the cheapest aerosol was WD40 at $5 and then there is the gear oil option which needs to be applied very sparingly to avoid too much splatter. So how much are you going to spend on prolonging the life of your chain if you religiously do it every week say? I have just installed a DID X ring chain with gold outer plates and JT front and rear sprockets on my machine at a cost of £88 plus P&P. So I will prevent the rust and keep the chain in an acceptable visual condition but not go totally anal doing so and resign myself to replacing the chain and sprockets more often than I would otherwise have done. Probably saving crinkle and most definitely my time when I could be out there riding the damn thing.
I love the Fortnine videos. I never miss one. I watched those and decided that Kerosene and gear oil was for me. Rex
As clean as my chain is above (Thats 2 weeks) at least 500 miles. I do not think I will be brushing and all the heavy duty cleaning every time. I will probably go back to my weekly (Thursday evening) with just a wipe with a clean lightly kerosene soaked rag and then a light lube. Then do the grunge brush once a month. Unless I get caught in some rain. So far the last 3k miles I have only been on damp roads and hit with maybe 100 drops... With the Kerosene and gear oil being so inexpensive I will never run out. Rex
look at the diagram, then look at your chain, the x rings do not seal the ends of the rollers at all, take a screwdriver and push on a roller, it will move side to side on the pin, the ends of the rollers are NOT sealed.
I just watched the cleaner video again. If my chain is ever that dirty before I clean it I need a belt drive... Rex
Look at the diagram Paul, the end of the roller has a gap to the end plate, if you push on a roller with a screwdriver it will move from side to side between the plates, nothing seals the ends of the rollers.
https://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=Awr...n-public/RK=2/RS=GEJW1M2Q.bw2NEjx39xGPyTQkIw- i was looking for fleetwood mac, never break the chain but this come up instead so i thought it might help someone out there....
If you tried your best... You generally aren't miserable... Somebody post that Huzzah video for this man. Rex
Yes we do need to look again at the diagram that you provided. Also I may have misled you by the incorrect use of the terminology. I should have said bush not roller. The inner plates on the chain are held apart by bushes which have a “stepped end” and the hole through the inner plates has a similar but mirrored profile. The fit between the bush and the plate is an interference fit and the bushes do not rotate within the inner plates. The roller is fitted over and rotates around the bush. The pin goes through the middle of the bush and it is the space between the pin and the inside of the bush that contains the lubricant introduced during manufacture that our O or X rings protect from the elements. Regina Chains recommend the application of SAE80-90 oil, the surplus to be wiped away after a couple of hours with a clean rag.
Yes but getting back to my original point ideally you should get lube between the roller and pin, my query is to whether the thicker wax type lubricants do so, every time a roller contacts a tooth it moves and therefore should be lubricated.
