Ti Bolts Into Mag Wheels

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by chizel, Aug 4, 2020.

  1. Indeed, another thread ruined :eek:
     
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  2. Have to disagree about lubrication - all nominal torque values are for parts with "light oil" applied. You'll see from your Ducati manual that there is lubricant (oil or grease) or thread lock (which also acts as a lubricant during assembly) applied to every bolt/nut for their given torque figures.
     
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  3. Out of interest, are the brake disc threads on your mag wheels straight into the magnesium or do they have some kind of insert like a helicoil? The limiting factor for a torque setting straight into mag would be the magnesium female thread and not the strength of the bolt. Obviously whatever is there works but maximum torque setting for a M8 bolt into steel is higher than the same into Aluminium which in turn is higher than into Magnesium.
     
  4. Not all fasteners.
     
  5. Agree. All to do with the length of thread engagement. To apply the same bolt tension (or tightening torque) in different materials, the thread length is increased/decreased so as to control stress in the threaded material (assuming the same bolt material is used for all). This is why a steel nut is about the same thickness (thread length) as its bolt, and the threads in your Aluminium cases are about three times as long...
     
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  6. im unsure mate. im to pic em up tomorrow from the powdercaoters. the only thing i no is the powdercoater has crac tested em and applied some sort of coating pre powdercoating. dont no if the inserts (if the wheel has em)would be visible after the coating? sorry, my laptop has a button missing.. any guesses as to which one?
     
  7. It will be a primer as the powder doesn't like to stick to mag without it. You should still see if they have a insert. I would be surprised if they don't but who knows.
     
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  8. Que?
     
  9. yes a primer but specific to mag, cant remember the name. the man nos his stuff and has the ability/certified? to crac test mag. i would imagine the wheel has inserts given what yoal have said about the properties of mag. im sure marchesini dont turn out crap...or do they?!
     
  10. facepalm!!!!!
     
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  11. Seeing as we're already here...
    Every day's a school day: Carbon Fibre material's galvanic-corrosion potential.

    Carbon-fibre to Magnesium.PNG
     
  12. I think they are probably as good as they come but longevity is a issue. OZ guarantee their mag F1 rims for 1000 km . That's the forged ones. The cast ones are 300 km. You had them checked so they are good now. I wouldn't have them powder coated personally but chromated instead. Can't crack check through the powder coat in years to come.
     
  13. Alodine 1200 chemical conversion coating.
     
  14. see! you are here to help!!! ive no idea what you just said but it sounded helpful. love you ric.y x....
     
  15. unless i have an incident where i thin. the wheels may have been damaged, is there any need to chec. em on a regular basis? it cost me 320 to have em stripped, tested, primed and finished so if i had to do that every 5 years or so it wouldnt be the end of the world... or is it not that simple? i really dont no!
     
  16. Get them NDT x-rayed
     
  17. Ducati have been fitting Magnesium alloy wheels to bikes for 30 years and more, my V4 came with Magnesium alloy wheels as did the Panigale 1199 SL and I ran late 90s era Magnesium alloy wheels on my 853 track bike without any issue what so ever. I don’t and never have liked titanium fasteners so my experience is using SS although I suspect my V4 wheels have used bolts made from Ducati cheese to secure the discs as usual. There is a lot of mumbo jumbo in this thread, what is important is that the wheels have been passivated dipped and if Chizel uses an appropriate thread preparation as recommended by Nellie, everything will be fine. Andy
     
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  18. wots that then?
    the chap ive used stands by the fact that he is one of a handful in the country to be able to crac test mag wheels properly.. or is he blowing smo.e up my arse? i hope not as ive been using him for a few years now and really li.e his wor.
     
  19. I think a periodic check at the obvious stress points would suffice. Baring any big impacts where would a crack propagate from. On the front probably round the brake fixing points. If it's a single sided rear it would be most likely around the drive pegs. These are areas without powder so can be crack checked. Even old fashioned red dye penetrant and developer in a can will find cracks there. If I found some for mine at the right price I would have them in a flash.
     
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