Just pull the plates and check them Paul. As @Android853sp says, 3mm thickness for friction plates, below 2.6mm is worn out, bin & replace. The Steel plates wear a lot slower, may just have to replace the friction plates. If you e more than 0.6mm gap between the basket slots and teeth then the basket ideally needs replacing. However, if it’s not too badly notched you may get away with it, it’ll just be extra rattly. If the basket looks like this it’s shagged!
Check that you have the correct clutch springs as well and that they are exerting sufficient pressure. Old springs can compress over time and loose their pressure, also I've heard that spring lengths and rates can vary slightly between models. Many years ago I changed two fibre plates for sintered plates on my TZ350 ( it was a common mod to stop plates breaking) and it then suffered similar symptoms to those you describe. The cure was to swap 3 of the six springs for TZ750 springs which were slightly longer and stronger, problem solved.
And just to add my two pence worth , personally I prefer to change the rear sprocket rather than front. I found it gave me a smoother drive, and apparently is less stressful on the gearbox internals. I know it’s a faff as it only takes 5 mins to change a front sprocket but trust me it’s better overall. Especially on the older style engines which have more character ( ie they are lumpier than latest) but that’s what attracts me to them!
I'll be doing C&S so its not an issue other than finding a 46t rear that doesn't need a carrier. Don't see the point in a carrier if the gearing is going to be fixed once done. With front, if you don't like it £15 for another, the rear isn't.
Regarding stack height - I never bother measuring the thickness of the clutch pack. I prefer to install the pack and then measure the distance between the inner drum outer face and the first plate. Should be around 5mm or thereabouts.
Nice one Bradders. IMO the S4 series were the high point of the Monster. Proper hairy chested power but with none of the nannying rider aids or electronic ride by wire which in my experience robs the rider of that analogue organic connection to the engine/bike and can make things feel a little artificial, muffled and distant. The 796/1100 were better looking but being air cooled, a little underwhelming power-wise and the 821/1200, are not only the worst looking bikes of the series but are also too “techie” for what should be a raw and basic motorcycle.
Started making it mine. Fitted my cheapo Chinese bar end mirrors, and if I can use them I’ll buy some decent ones C&S turned up today, one to fit next weekend probably as busy this weekend. Gone 14t Didn’t buy the slipper I was asking about for it seems ages so now on the look out and probably buy a clutch holding tool ready Still can’t decide on short can or not. Think I’ll buy the short can and take advantage of @Zhed46 ’s kind offer on his cored cat and see how that goes Changed plate, ok it’s an S4 not an S2 but who cares Fitted the tank clip to use my givi tank bag I have several sets of clip ons that fit, so may whip the headlight bracket off next week and try them... Still on the list: clutch, obvs, and pads. Look lots of life but suspect they may be a bit glazed, as they are almost as wooden as the GS! So I’ll take out and clean. Set the sag the best I can given weight/springs. if the weather is ok may follow Cookster to Silverstein in bike instead of car. Good time to do my sag
I put these $30 jobs on mine and they are way better than the rubbish blurry wobblers that were on it. Had the same ones on my M12 and so did again. Recommend. They are optically correct and much better to use than you would have thought. They can be mounted with the stalks sticking straight out as well. https://www.tritonmotorcyclecompany.co.uk/triton-store/bar-end-mirrors.html#lg=1&slide=1
if you are going to put clipons on it i have a headlight bracket thats been shortened and the headlight mount point lowered to allow mounting the clocks under the top yoke (it looks so much better). i also have some shorter brake lines which you might find you will need. ping me a pm if yr interested and i will send you some pics.
I just ordered the 20mm nut you need to fit the clutch I have for sale to the S4RS Andy (You have to admire a trier)
Tbh one ride and it’s not that bad. May leave as is for now tbh. Only because I plan to use on track I’m thinking of changing.
Day out in Winchester with Carole while MR service her Diavel on Tuesday ........ which needs to be paid for Andy
Keep us posted! I think I mentioned earlier, I always hankered after one of those. The proper bad boy monster. More than enough poke for the road and if well set up, a great track toy I don’t intend going back on the road. I blagged a mates S1000RR gen 4 last week whilst over in Northern Ireland. Shit scary fast the way I flew past all the roadside furniture. Definitely out of my comfort bubble keeping up with my nutter friends
Defo. Key reason for clip ons really. 130hp (ish) will be enough if I get fitter and game head back on for fast groups easy. Just stay off the racing line on long straights lol
