Thanks all for the input. Obviously its early days so i'll see how it goes. I could have bought the 848 but have to say I love the look of the 749/999's and it seems quite special with the carbon fibre bodywork. It's certainly one of those bikes that you can't walk away from without turning around to have another look.:smile:
Ian is correct, the key to a smooth slipper seems to be fitting dished plates. I bought my 1098s with a DP slipper fitted. It was very 'grabby' and made an awful screeching noise when pulling away (if it didn't stall 1st). I tried all of the old wives tales of cleaning the clutch out, using sandpaper to scuff the steels etc and nothing made it any better. The breakthrough came when I fitted 3 of the dished plates to the clutch stack (the delaer hadn't fitted any !). The clutch is now very smooth when feeding it in and the bike pulls away with no fuss. The clutch slips perfectly when down shifting too.
cheers ian. just been and pulled all my spares out and have 2 new concave rings @1.5mm my clutch isnt together right so gonna sort in the morn. I have steel ring on first and no concave rings. and also the bauer washer here too. gonna take it off and rebuilt it...will only take 30 mins... always a prob when you buy things and dont get the instructions. (just downloaded that previous pic) cheers
Phil. This explains the order of the clutch plates a bit better. Basically the 1st steel in the pack should be a dished plate, with the dish facing towards you as you are fitting it. The 2nd from last steel (the 1st one after the end steel) should be a dished plate facing in towards the engine. The slipper should start with a friction plate (By 1st, I mean the 1st one fitted) and end with a steel (pressure plate side)
My new STM is lubly, feels much nicer than I ever got the non-slipper. I also had an original Ducti one on my old 748R, which I converted to std as I got so pissed off with it, looking back prob due to my own lack of knowledge than anything else. But also an option for the OP as the parts aren't too expensive convert. All I have learned over the last few years is of Ducati clutch mystic is it's PLATES that are critical and I mean millimeter critical. Get the height and order right and you're away! Phil, sounds like your order is wrong if you have a steel in first, this can also be a tad dangerous. Good luck getting them sorted.
Firstly a Great bike. Did you get the carbon model? I'm on my 2nd 749R... The standard Slipper Clutch is awesome it just requires some regular cleaning out and greasing of the ramps. I had a load of problems which took ages to sort out but it was a combination of issues. Problems to check for if the clutch becomes grabby. Slave Cylinder Seal, Had the standard OEM fail. Replaced with a pile of crap MPL Slave. which were replaced three times. I would go and buy an Oberon Slave Straight away. They are tried and tested and it would would make the clutch lighter if you are riding in town. Check Master Cylinder, mine failed and the whole thing was replaced. I also had incorrect stack height which was causing problems. The stack height was adjusted buy inserting more dished plates. However there were wharped plates left in there which again caused me problems. I ended up putting in a new clutch pack. I also inserted a new spider spring. Also replaced the Stainless steel springs with the OEM all these clutch issues were sorted by Alan at Snells. Legend. Good luck, once this is sorted you will have one of the best offerings out of the Ducati Factory.
plus it really is about the stack height in relation to the inner drum.......order of the plates is crucial as if you have a steel first ...on a slipper as soon as the drum moves out ie to slip, the steel plate can drop behind the drum then you have nothing the clutch is permanently disengaged!
the plate kit is new so I shouldn't have too many worries re wear but will fit in as above with the correct order of plates and measure as I go along to make sure. thanks
Phil its not about measuring as you go along, its about the total height of the stack in relation to the inner drum. it really is a critical measurement. This is the reason why there are 1.5 and 2mm steels so you can adjust the overall height by swapping around plates until you achieve the correct height.......Do you know what the height should be?:wink:
I think i have come across it before but - never acted on it. .....just wapp em in there - eeeek what is the total height and how do you calculate in yourself thanks
OK so it not about measuring a stack of plates to get say 36.5mm or something. Build the clutch pack up in the correct order, when you get to the last plate this should sit 4-5mm below the height of the inner drum ( hold the plates in squarely so you dont misread, use a vernier to measure accurately) if you've fitted spring plates then i would err nearer the 4mm but no lower, the nearer you go to 5mm and beyond is why they screech and grab .....simples.
ok thanks. if anything I think its closer toward flush from memory. if not flush - not far from it...gonna finish this cuppa off and make a move and correct my nooobness
Good stuff... Once you get it working, not sure about the DP one, but the STM has a slot to poke a vernier through to take a depth measurement. Likey so; http://www.yoyodyneti.com/motorcycle_slipper_clutch_operat.htm
You are right there Nelson. When I bought my 1098s, the dealer had fitted a steel plate 1st, when shifting down, the steel used to slip behind the splined hub as it opened up and the bike felt like it was in neutral. Not fun at all when you expect some engine braking from the rear end. The plates in a slipper fit in a different order to a standard clutch.
