I have them Dibs. I was not aware of that potential problem. I will leave them in and hit the kill switch and clutch if it happens.
I've never been bothered by the throttle free-play before on any bikes I've had, but it did seem slightly more pronounced on the 899, so I got the spacer kit and it definitely made a difference. Slow speed manoeuvres are less choppy now. However, it took a few rides to get used to no longer having throttle play, after years of being conditioned to ride with it.
So today I’ve bought some heat reflecting gold tape to get ready for when I actually ride it lol Need to sort a stand out to start fitting stuff and get a new battery maintainer as mine is old and the car one the wring side of the garage (and wrong connection)
I have this and the front to match https://constands.co.uk/product/rea...99-panigale-15-17-constands-single-one-black/ Fantastic quality and very stable. on the downside, it is quite big, making it a little awkward to get onto a stillage for overseas trackday days. But it goes on
Got one of those with the bike It’s an Abba stand or similar to swap out the shock. I’ll probably see if I can swap the pegs over and use axle stands.
Few more little ones today. Heat tape after reading how hot they get, headstock pin and abba fitting kit. Means I have to remove lowers but it will be rare use stand so not worth cutting away the panel. Fitted the spacers and had a mess with the settings. Next weekend hope to get the ttx shock on then soon enough I’ll be able to get Cookster round to do measuring for sag with me on both bikes. And t3scn with his laptop to flash the monster ecu and remove the engine light!
Heat tape arrived, started looking at how the exhaust shield is removed...subframe lift, tank lift, remove panels just to access....what have I started?!! Wasn't thuis mengt to be Ducati's race bike fro the road?!
Are you wrapping the exhaust? Ive always wondered how effective it is. Not that I suffer from "burnt bollox syndrome" like some seem to.
No, not a fan tbh, I have seen first hand them burst into flames and equally not sure if that just pushes heat elsewhere in the system. I'm add some heat protection tape. The kit you can buy is about £100 or something and is seat, subframe, rear seat unit only. I've bought some high resistant tape for lex than £20 and am setting about fitting to this parts plus the underside of the shield; the black top layer not the lower one
Wrapping exhaust does not work. I tried it. Lieb Speed used to do carbon covers with heat shield inners that help. I also used proper gold coating stuff for inside of heat shield and underside of seat. You may also need a tank extender to prevent you sliding up the tank under braking and some TechSpec tank grips. Ignore the R&G or EZ grip ones as they just come unstuck after a month or so. I also considered using ceramic spacers between subframe but Ive given up on the bike. Its unrideable when its hot outside. A few yrs ago it was 36° in France and that was one of the worst experiences Ive had on a bike. Its not just the exhaust, but the engine is hot and all that heat has to go somewhere. Get used to riding along with your knees out like airbrakes. Use leathers without stretchy nylon on indide thighs. Stick to leather.
Funny enough I read an old, old read of yours I think today about how to remove the shield. Loosen subframe, lift tank, remove side covers I think. May as well use as a reason to clean some stuff
Seat off - lift tank - make sure you remove the plastic trim around the front of the tank and loosen the front mounting bolts then you can get to the heat shield front bolt. The hole it goes through is right in the middle of the below picture. I find you really need to remove the lower subframe bolts and even then when levering the subframe up it can catch on the rear of the engine casing so you have to remove the top bolts as well. And if you are removing the heat shield you are going to have to remove the O2 sensor from the pipe as the wiring passes through the shield - it’s cable tied to the subframe so the wires twist up when you remove it and then again when you try to tighten it back up! You can pre twist the wires in the opposite direction before tightening but the proper way means cutting all of the cable ties and unplugging it. By the third time I did this I just bit the bullet and took the everything off that need to make it easier to work on - tank included - was quicker in the end than messing about propping things up and doesn’t take long once you are used to it.
How the f*ck to you get at the shock side subframe bolt without removing the shock?! And how the f*ck do you actually get at the front bolt? I thought the multi had some poor design, this takes the award for most ridiculous
