Kraken I think your ecus are ok.I removed the 20 A fuse and injection relay in my bike and I got with iawdiag P0230 error.The coils and injectors get current from the injection relay.When this relay closes, you must have 11,5 volts at Bn/W cables on coil, injectors connectors.Coils and injectors are grounded digitally by the ECU (pins 10,38,37,27 engine area).The injection relay is also grounded by ECU ( pin 6 body area ).If these lines are ok something blocks the ECU or there isn't a current supply.Remove the lights relay and replace the injector relay.It is the same. Disconnect the fuel pump connector and do the injector test. Disconnect the starter relay and do the test. Disconnect the engine temperature sensor and do the test. Do the same for neutral switch,stand switch,oil pressure sensor .. Clear all fuses contacts.Remove the dashboard connector and try with your 103 ecu I know is difficult problem, stay strong! View attachment 240257
Injector spray test. It's been mentioned before but you appear to have convinced yourself it can't be the problem. Without actually checking you can't be sure.
the bulb will only illuminate during cranking (flash) if working correctly. 12v constant when ignition on. with the earth supplied by the ecu during cranking. i think you should expect around 16ohms from the injectors.
Air filter, airbox and manifold air leaks. I don't think this has been mentioned and they all need to be ruled out.
Hi Ben, I'm going to test all those things one by one. I am also going to disassemble the injection body and test it off the bike. Thanks for the encouragement, it is being harder than I thought.
Hello Traveling Man, It is not that I am sure that it is not fault, it is that it is the only thing that I have not been able to verify, because I wanted to avoid disassembling it. If you read my post, I was looking for a way to check it without having to disassemble it, but I have not succeeded, now it is time to disassemble the injection body and test it off the bike. In fact, I have checked an injector connector and it is not getting power. That is why I thought that the failure was not there until before that point. An air leak would make the bike not idle or be bad, but I don't think it would prevent the engine from starting
I expected to see the light blink while trying to start it, but that didn't happen. I will test the constant 12v with the ignition on, and the resistance of the injectors.
I understand all of your comments but I was intentionally trying to move you away from the electrical diagnostics rabbit hole you seem to have gone down! Although the cause may well be electrical, start with the basics (some of which you've covered but not completely) and think about the context. The bike has been standing for a long time. Once done you can eliminate these areas as possible causes and the work needs to be done anyway, if you want to put the bike back on the road. I used to work in the bike trade and we'd get lots of bikes like yours. I don't know modern Ducatis that well but I'm just applying basic principles, as all bikes are essentially the same. This is how we'd of dealt with your bike. Firstly, give it a service; checking or replacing the following: Spark plugs. Oil and oil filter. Air filter, inspecting the airbox for debris and the condition of any seals. Fuel filter, fuel lines and injectors. Manifold rubbers (airbox to throttle bodies and manifold). Battery voltage (charge/replace). Check condition of cambelts for an initial start (replace at a later stage). Check brake system: discs, pads, replace fluid. Bleed clutch (if hydraulic). If all good then try to start the bike. If no start: Check compression and if compression was lower than expected, check the valve clearances. If all good and still no start, then pursue the electrical diagnostic route. If the bike was in visibly poor condition with no evidence of use in recent years we'd start by trying to turn the engine over by hand and then check compression, before doing anything else. One of the first things to do when working on any bike is to remove the fuel tank. If you need to rig up some form of alternative fuel supply then so be it.
This is the basic.When push the start button or do the test or turn key switch ON (only for 2-3 seconds, fuel pump noise. ..), is the B phase at injection relay
I'm going to write down everything that I have already replaced and what I know works ... -New spark plugs -New motor oil -New oil filter -New starting motor -Air filter and filter box cleaned and in perfect condition. -Pick-up new and adjusted to 0.6 (the 0.6 gauge goes in, but the 0.7 gauge does not) -Checked coils, both and both spark plugs of each coil work. -New fuel pump installed and working perfectly. -New fuel filter. -New pressure regulator. -Injection relay checked. -Start relay checked. -Clutch switch, checked. -Side stand switch, checked -Neutral switch, checked. -Ground cable to starter motor. -Ground cable to the ECU. -TPS restarted. -I have not measured the compression of the cylinders, but when I remove the spark plugs they appear to have good compression. -The bike has been standing still for a long time, but it has been under cover and has no rust or wear anywhere. Indeed Travellingman I am stuck in an alley with the electrical diagnosis, but I honestly believe that the problem is there, although I do not know where.
OK. Your list is very clear and helpful. Injector spray test then!! I know you're going to do it and it may not be the problem but they have to be checked. Think of it this way: If the bike had carburetors, stripping them down and cleaning all of the internal components (and replacing as necessary) would be an obvious thing to do but you haven't done the equivalent of that with the injectors. Worst case scenario and you have to replace them, they're €69 each from Stein Dinse. A bargain if you ask me. Hopefully they're fine and as you suspect it's something relatively simple in the electrical system. It seems like you're getting some good help on that front! Good luck.
Thanks Travellingman, All points of view and ideas are welcome, the list of possible failures is being reduced and at some point it will start.
You mention that you have tested the relays. Have you tested both relay functions/channels on each relay? When my Multistrada refused to start a long way from home, I phoned a Ducati technician who suspected the ignition/injection relay. He told me to reach up into the fairing, alongside side the (left?) fork leg and remove the relay for the lights which is identical to the ignition relay and swap them over. BOOM! the bike started immediately, but because one of the 'channels' in the ignition relay was blown, it meant that when used for the headlight, I think it was only high beam that worked for the ride home. This is a very quick, easy thing to check, just swap the two relays to see if it makes a difference..
I've just read this whole thread, and really feel your pain. A couple of things I'd like to understand, apologies if I've missed them in previous posts. I get the impression you are using a replacement ECU as the original didn't pass some tests. Are you completely sure the replacement ECU has had the immobiliser deactivated, as the ECU and clocks are paired and cant be changed independently. Also the TPS, is it Linear or non-linear? I think the bike should have a Linear one fitted, but if an attempt is made with the JPDiag software to reset a non-Linear TPS it can have an effect very similar to this, the ECU is effectively locked out. Nasher
I have disassembled them, I have connected them to a battery and I have checked the output voltage when I made them work, everything was correct. Anyway I will also check what you say.
My bike being 2004 has a Linear TPS. Immobilizer is disabled on all my ECUs except the original one. If the problem was the immobilizer it would not move the starter motor, and it does with all my ECUs. In addition, error 37.3 (immobilizer off) appears on the instrument panel.
As you say it will start at some stage. Keep going! Fuel injected bikes that have been standing can be a complete nightmare. Yours certainly isn't the first. Give me carbs and no electronics any day.
I'll tell you about the problems that old carburetors can give me, I have a 1994 Triumph Speed Triple waiting to be rebuilt.
