1993 900ss £2k Bargain(?) Restoration

Discussion in 'Supersport (1974-2007)' started by hosepipe, Dec 27, 2021.

  1. A nice project for the winter nights...
    Cracks around the headstock can be anywhere around all four tubes that join the head bearing tube (but the upper tubes are most common) and the plate for the tank latch. Have a good look from all angles.
    Likewise, swingarm. Area's around the pinch points for the forward frame bolt mounts are common, mainly due to over-tightening but also the rivnuts where the huggar mounts to the swingarm.
    As an aside I have new pair of low mounts Laser carbon skinned silencers that a guy in N.Z. said he wanted, until he found out I was in the UK!
     
  2. Thanks for the advice Donkey, I'll have a good look and post pictures when I have it all cleaned up. I am going to keep the existing silencers and try to repack them while I wait to get high level fittings etc.
     
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  3. Post back if you get in touch with Steve - I've sent him a couple of messages and not heard back - but to be fair I probably should have rung the number - I'm after a set of high level mounts too - I have a local engineering firm making me a set but if I can quickly get another set...
     
  4. Keep an eye open for rotting petrol tank, snapped head bolts, rectifier/ regulator issues, all quite common on this model/ year.
    One thing I’d highly recommend is getting the carbs ultrasonically cleaned and balanced, it makes a huge difference in starting and running.
     

  5. Looking forward to seeing your progress - plenty of previous threads on here to help you out - My advice would be to take it apart. It's always easier to clean then, and they come apart fairly easily.
     
  6. Thanks Carr. After a thorough clean I took it out for a ride today and it is popping a lot on closed throttle and at tickover so that sounds like a good idea.
     
  7. Check for inlet (perished rubber) and exhaust air leaks (usually the joints) in that case...
     
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  8. Thanks. I took the scottolier off and it had a pipe running from one of the carbs presumably to create air pressure to pump out the oil. I didn't see a pipe to refit to the nipple on the carb though so just took it out for a ride anyway assuming it was just an air release. It didn't pop so much the first couple of times I rode it but since then I have also thoroughly cleaned the bike so may have dislodged something or just removed grime that was making a seal.
     
  9. Its most likely popping because the pipe you took off the carb when removing the scott oiler is sucking air in. That pipe on the carb is where you connect your vacuum guages when balancing the carbs
    Scottoilers work on vacuum
     
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  10. Yep, you need to bung up that hole for sure.
     
  11. Thanks Higgy, I thought the scottoiler was working on a blow not a suck.
    Thanks both of you. Should that be connected to a hose or just terminated in some way? I do have a mystery hose flapping about on the other side of the bike as shown in one of my pictures earlier in this thread.
     
  12. Nice thread this. Enjoy the process.
     
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  13. Follow the hose(s) to confirm where the hose is attached to the carbs, if smaller diameter then probably attaches to bottom of float bowl (shown tie-wrapped by item 9 below) and can be two per carb or one per carb depending on which bowls fitted, later had one tube per, and served as dual function for bowl drain via drain screw, but also (in theory) for bowl overflow, and regardless of 2 or 4 hoses, should route to just below the crankcase as std.
    Larger diameter hoses would normally route to item 13 and 15 and are the fuel vapour/air breather catchment tanks that sit either side of the frame as standard.
    [​IMG]
     
    #33 Chris, Dec 30, 2021
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2021
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  14. Thanks Chris. I am away at the moment so unable to look at the bike. I'll compare it to the diagram when I can.
     
  15. Hi, I have a 1994 900SS so very similar or maybe identical to yours. The wire on the attached pic looks like the side stand switch, but as far as I remember it doesn't plug in as you may have thought, it comes as a swtich (threaded to screw into the side stand assenbly) and a length of wire attached by the manufacturer. On mine it only lights up on the dash, doesn't stop the engine running whether the side stand is up or down (a bit dangerous and that's why some people do a mod to enable the stand to kill the engine). Let me know if you want me to dig out the part number for the correct side stand switch or if there are any photos of my bike which may help you at some point. Cheers Pete

    20211227_115029596_iOS.jpeg
     
  16. This was my old knackered side stand switch (after the attached wiring 'broke off' of course!). Pete

    kickstand switch.jpg
     
  17. It doubles up as the rear brake light switch. The same one was used on the Ducati 748 (see attached pic for one I picked up used on ebay). I removed the switch from the 748 metal mounting bracket which is obviously different, (maybe someone on here may want the 748 bracket?). Pete

    Ducati 748 Rear Brake Light Switch And Bracket 1.jpg
     
  18. I think people might be turning up at you home with this post! :D
     
  19. Maybe they can help me get the SS to start! :thinkingface:
     
  20. Thanks everyone for your responses regarding the side stand switch. I did briefly take a look at it after a previous response but there appeared to be no connector just the end of a wire inside a rubber housing. If the switch has gone missing that would make sense.
     
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