I've done a few more miles on the bike over the weekend and am getting a little more used to it, especially the warm Arse situation. I can confirm having ridden both back to back that it is more comfortable than my 1000SS, less heavy on my wrists, and feeling physically bigger for me as a 6' bloke to fit on. Lady Nasher tells me that the Racefit Exhaust which I re-packed is quieter than the Ducati Performance Remus cans on my 1000SS and M1000, although from the riding position I'd say she's possibly mistaken. It's a completely different sound, with both cylinder noises interacting in the Silencer rather than the 'X' header and two cans on the others. Before riding it again I stripped the entire exhaust off and applied sealing paste to all the joints. The popping and banging on over-run is slightly better, but still a little to much for my liking. I'm assuming now it's down to the silencer, so may have to try the standard silencer I've gutted and rebuilt instead. Is popping and Banging on over-run an issue with a Termi silencer? I'm really pleased with the clutch on this one, I've rebuilt it the same as my other bikes, with the extra friction plate at the back and the stack height @3mm from the hub. This one unlike the other two works great 1st time without any tweaking, so I've obviously learnt something. It's completely silent with the clutch lever out at idle in Neutral, and doesn't make too much noise with the lever pulled in, exactly as I like them. The setup on the bike transmission wise is std front sprocket and a 39 tooth rear, which I went for after much reading of old posts on here and elsewhere. With the 180/55 rear tyre I'm getting 70mph at almost spot on 4K RPM, does that sound right to others with the same setup?
The popping and banging is down to fuelling. Most likely the bike running lean and unburnt fuel detonating in the exhaust. Playing with the CO setting may improve things.
You mean running rich. If it was running lean then there wouldn't be unburned fuel in the exhaust. I suspect the up-map for cans/full systems remove decel fuel cut which will cause pops, bangs and the occasional flames. The full systems do away with the lambda sensors too which means you're in open loop fuelling all the time too, that combined with alpha N fuelling (fuel map is throttle pos Vs RPM rather than speed density of MAF based) means that running rich is kind of a given. My 1098 with the 70mm termi does it, not loads, just the odd crack and bang.
Thanks all. I'm running the standard map at the moment, which obviously isn't helping, especially as both CATs have been removed. So I suppose I should be expecting it really.
I've also started some work on the option of fitting the RS style Carbon single seat unit I picked up. All I've done so far to the actual unit is clean it up a bit and get it ready to reattach the front part the seat bolts to. Although I'm very tempted to use the original ABS part as a mould and recreate the part in Carbon before joining it to the back part. I can't complain about the state of it as it was basically Free.
Of course to use the RS tail I need a Monoposto 'Style' Subframe. I am obviously completely against the idea of spending £250 on a steel replica Mono subframe, or even more on an original Ali one, so need to turn to my spare Biposto one. As most know it's possible to convert a Biposto subframe to Mono by cutting off the top loop and doing some other small mods. I worked out where I'd need to cut it so I could weld back in the original bends from the top tube and make it look like it might have been meant to be that way. So after a session with a 1mm cutting disc: I cleaned it up with a grinding disc and welded the bends from the top tube in to finish it off again: The welds need tidying up a bit more, and of course it needs painting, but I'll do that when I know it all fits and doesn't need more mods.
Nice work How about adding the adjustable mounting points to allow the tank to be adjusted in 3 positions. You will need 3 holes in the side plates as well.
I made a big decision earlier in the week, acted on it yesterday morning, and am glad I did. I've gone back to a standard exhaust silencer on this bike. I took it into work when I popped into the office for something and it was noted that it was louder than my M1000 and 1000SS, both of which have Ducati Performance Remus cans on. I mentioned it to Lady Nasher that night, and she admitted she was considering saying something to me about just how loud it is compared to the other two bikes. I swapped the cans over yesterday morning and took it out for a ride. It does still sound OK, but actually is a little less wearing to ride without the noise. Plus, there is now no popping and banging on the over-run, which I had tried my best to eliminate, but was now actually adjusting my riding to compensate for. I'm sure my neighbours will silently thank me too. It will effect what I do in relation to a seat unit, the Carbon one mentioned just above won't work with it.
Thanks Sev, yes, at tickover you'd not think it was louder, but open the throttle just a little and it really barks. The Sts silencer is actually still louder than I thought it would be, so I'm not even going to try the std one I cut open and gutted as I'm sort of looking forward to being able to pop out early on a Sunday morning without waking the neighbours. I'll have a think about trying to calm the Racefit down a little, maybe a Winter project to add to the list. this has already been retrieved from my storage container and is back on the options list: It's got @5 layers of paint on it over the Carbon, some of which haven't adhered to each other very well so have bubbled and peeled. What I'd really like to do is strip all the paint off completely, repair the damage it has then come up with a paint scheme that covers where I've repaired the damage but leaves small bits of the Carbon showing, just lacquered. Need to find a good chemical stripper that will get the paint off without effecting the Carbon.
Thanks Sev Your take on Paintstripper is welcome, especially considering what you do to pay the bills. I've used Paintstripper on painted fibreglass a few times and not had an issue, although of course that would have been Polyester and laid up by hand with a roller or brush. Everything I've read on line says don't do it, but I was going to try firstly with something weak like Nitromors.
If you going to attempt to strip it chemically I’d suggest wetting a rag with acetone or gun wash much the same thing to try and wipe the paint off in layers rather than leaving a layer of paint stripper to soak into the item. Good luck whatever way you decide.
Not sure if it is an option but may be worth a mention: I had the misfortune of damaging (to put it mildly) my 851/926 Carbon tank. It had a beautiful paint-job previously, but once damaged the previous layers sort of stratified and I was just able to scrape back the 3 or 4 previous layers with no stripper necessary:
Thanks 749R, that's exactly what has happened to parts of my tailpiece, but only parts of it, and like yours only down to what looks like high build primer. I've had a good pick at it like a teenage boy with a Zit, but I want to take it all off back to the bare Carbon
No, carbon fibre, moulded in two halves (so they can install the fuel pump mounting gubbins, internal brace etc) and it has just split along the join. Raw carbon visible during repair prep: