Hi Hejira, Not tried bleeding at Master Cylinder, not sure how I would do that, could you give me a few pointers. Cheers Gaz
Just treat the master cylinder banjo bolt as another bleed point - plenty of rags around, then pressurise/pump system and gently crack open the m/cylinder banjo. Tighten again before pressure lost to stop air getting in. Idea is that air will gravitate to highest point in the system, which is the m/cylinder banjo.
Thanks, will get my rags out this weekend. I did have the assembly off the bike and had the calipers raised. Presume tying back the lever for a day or so will help migrate air up (so I've read). Cheers Gaz
Hi Gaz, how are you getting on? Doesn't look fully bled in your video. It took me a few attempts to get my technique perfected!! I guess everyone does it a little differently. I use a jam jar 1/3 filled with brake fluid. Some oxygen tubing with a snug fitting bolt screwed in the end and a slit cut in the tubing just above the bolt. I use a clothes peg to clip the tube to the lip of the jar. With the tube submerged and other end attached to the bleed nipple (with friction only) I fill the reservoir and crack the bleed nipple and leave it for a while and wait for the fluid to emerge in the tubing and run into the jar. I then set up the master cylinder so it is pointing downwards a little, even if this means taking it off the clip on. I then go through the usual bleeding sequence, pump the lever three times, holding the lever in on the third pump and crack the bleed nipple, then tighten the nipple again with the lever held in. I do this over and over again, pumping 'gallons' of the fluid through. At times I tap the master cylinder, hoses and calipers with a screw driver to dislodge any sneaky bubbles. And like previously mentioned, you can try cracking the banjo bolt on the master cylinder with it pointing upwards a little. I have also walked away from it and left it over night and found in the morning it has bled itself. Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs. Charlie
Putting the Clutch back on, cable seems a bit short, just wondering if I have the routing right. Any chance of a few pictures. Many thanks in advance. Cheers Gaz
Apologies, Apologies, I am a Dufus (sorry it was late I have a new dog which is keeping me up and will blame it on brain fade). Its the choke cable that is coming up a bit short. I have got a set of these picture Roadtrip thanks very much. I have the choke cable coming off the carbs and running in a downward direction along a diagonal brace in the frame and tie wrapped (the horizontal one in the picture and exiting frame at my finger). I am wondering if I should direct the cable upwards to the top member of the frame to shorten the run. Cheers Gaz
Derek, Makes a bit more sense, I was trying to hide cables behind the frame to neaten it up (a bit of OCD), but think I need to let this one run where you said, thanks. Cheers Gaz
Not to say mine is 100% correct but it works, loosely hanging not clip tied to the frame, would try to avoid cable/frame rub if possible.
Roadtrip, Thanks, yes will take the ties off and let it run free. On the brake hoses I cut some spirals of fuel hose to help with rubbing, at least it will protect one part. Cheers Gaz
Good idea that, Seeing your frame is making me looking forward to changing my frame/wheels this year to a nice bright white.
I am obviously bias, but think the white frame with black wheels is the best combination. White wheels doesn't quite do it for me, but each to their own. Cheers Gaz
Trying to set up carbs. Got it running OK. Did a sync check and got the following. The gauges say "late valve timing" not sure about that thought I did the timing ok but will double check, & "leak at intake". Are theses OK or expected figures for 900ss or could there be a leak as gauges indicate. New gasket on intake and I thought I had assembled them well. Any help welcome. Cheers Gaz
Found a few web sites doing bike syncro tests, the reading all seem to be about the 6, 7, 8 inHg with someone saying (who was using the same type of gauges) forget the readings these are more for Cars. Also found the screw under the word "Vacuum" & "600" adjusts the pointer/needle. Will have another check this weekend with some propane to see if there are any leaks and fiddle with mixture screws. Cheers Gaz
Cannot get this hyperlink to work. But would assume that the calc uses the increased length of the leverage as a multiplier of the torque wrench setting?
I have also found that pressurising the system by pulling the lever before releasing the bleed nipple helps to get a really forceful flow into your receptor jar.
