Today's update; I've decided to take the frame off as recommended by you. I've drained the oil and it's clearly not been run much since it was put in, so no tell-tale signs of any problems. Exhausts system off, Carbs next. It's filthy, but nothing that can't be sorted (yet) .
Thanks for this - stop drilling the crack is important and I was thinking about over plating as you have done. I'm assuming that the frame is 4130 Chomoly and I'm looking for a suitable filler rod, I think ER70S-2 or ER80S-D2. Tony
So, I think I'm ready to split the frame and engine - any help on how to do this much appreciated! I'm thinking of supporting the engine, removing the rear wheel and disconnecting the swing arm/shock, then removing the front wheel/forks/levers/switchgear. Finally the nose fairing assembly and then unbolt the frame and lift it off. Is this correct? How heavy is the engine? I'm used to working on the Suzuki Hayabusa and I have to partially dismantle (head/barrels) to lift the motor off the lift on my own.
That is by far the easiest way, you leave the heaviest assembly behind, well-supported, and lift the frame off it, and easier if still attached to forks and front wheel I find.
Hi Tony Easiest way to get engine out is to remove full exhaust or just end cans, tank, air box and associated wiring, support the swinging arm then after removing engine wiring ( there is an earth strap at the back of engine to r/h footrest) support the engine securely then remove the two engine mounting bolts (you’ll need deep shallow width sockets) This will allow you to lift the rear of the frame up and wheel it forward leaving the engine s/arm with rear wheel still attached. You can also remove the r/wheel and swinging arm prior to this if you want to If CARLSBERG were designing an engine fit this is how they’d do it!!!!
These photos are from when I stripped my 900ss in 2009, I literally lifted the frame off the engine and swingarm, with the wheel still attached. I didn't even remove the swingarm from the engine as it helped moving the engine round on the bench when I was repainting it. Have you got a Haynes Manual as that is what I followed to strip the bike.
Wow, you have made a lovely job of that! Any pointers regarding getting all the old flaked paint off and which paint to use to re-finish? Mine looks similar to yours - mainly silver with black cylinders. Tony
Wire wheel on a drill to remove flaking paint. For the best paint search a post from me, as I tested a few kinds when I re-furbed my 999 last year.
Hi Tony and welcome. If you search the web ( if not already done that) about US models you find 2 types of 900 ss (CR and SP ) if not remembering wrong. The Cr model also have the 4.5 rear wheel. I suppose your swingarm is made of steel instead of aluminium? I think that the frame brace was manufactured and sold by "BB Fabrications". I am member of 900 ss 2 valve group at Face book. I´l think it was there i saw them sold. Good luck with your rebuild!
Thanks for the info, yes my swingarm is steel and the rear wheel is 4.5". I have a 5.5" to fit. I'll certainly join the facebook group and see if anyone has a brace for sale, I don't think they are available new anymore. I'm getting near to splitting the frame from the engine....
[QUOTE="Jon Wright, post: 2046356 "The Showa adjustable forks can be made to work far better with just springs spacers and oil, and can be picked up at very reasonable cost (used on several other models)" if searching on ebay, which other models please Jon? thanks David
Engine out and I've taken the generator cover off and removed the clutch, which looks in a pretty sorry state. I was toying with the idea of a slipper clutch and having checked prices of the OEM parts it looks like a no brainer. A couple of questions if I may; Where is the best place to procure OEM parts and gaskets from? The second question is a simple one (not): How far should I go with the strip down? It's only showing 12,000 miles, but the clutch baskets are quite worn, so not sure if this is true. Is it always prudent to change the oil seals on the clutch side and remove the heads/barrels to carry out the cosmetic work - although I had intended not to? It wasn't burning any oil when I started it up at the sellers place - I have read that the piston rings can lose their tension, but is this age or mileage related? Obviously I'll change the belts and check valve clearances - anything else in addition I should consider? Tony
Hi David, Apart from the SS range, without any mods to the yokes, you can use forks from the ST2, ST3, ST4, and the Monster range, with just a few general points to watch out for - monster fork tubes are shorter than SS, but still usable because SS turn like a supertanker when standard, so you will be pulling standard length ones up through the yokes anyway. - the bolt spacing for the calipers on all of the options follow the move to the Goldline calipers on all ranges, so check they match yours before you buy, or upgrade the calipers while you are working on the front end. Cheers, Jon
As mentioned previously, check the coarse oil strainer if not already done. Also check the condition of the sprag clutch. But the clutch basket and plates look ok to me for a road bike.
Sorry, forgot to mention, at the same time as the caliper lug spacing changed, the front axle diameter went up. Everything can be made to work with different bearing sizes, or spacers, but it adds another little bit to sort if you go, say, for a 900SSie fork in a 900SS carby.
The $64,000 question. My 2p. You have not ridden it far, if at all. Unless I missed it somewhere, you haven’t yet been classed as clinically obsessed with the Ducati way of engineering and bike dynamics (as most of the people commenting on this thread so far definitely have) So… You may love it or you may hate it. It might fit you like a velvet glove tailored just for you, or like a wooden overcoat complete with broken wrists and back. It might be a for-life keeper, or immediately make you put it up for sale, either because you will never use it, or because you quickly dived into a 4v superbike with the same spirit. So, you are at a point where this rebuild could cost £ a few hundred, but if you delve deep (“while I am this far in I might as well…”) it could easily be £ a few thousand, little of which you can recover. I would do the checks and set-up mentioned, weld the frame, put it back together for this spring, and ride the heck out of it through summer. Then you will know what your next steps are, 100%.
Makes absolute sense Jon and is pretty much what I was thinking. Those Showa forks that I bought on ebay should be here in the next day or two, so I'll put new seals in them and change the oil - that should improve things suspension wise as I want to do some track days on it too. Searching for the ie rear shock that mcr998 recommended currently. Tony
