Watching this closely--I have a 2012 1199S as well--6K miles--running great but always anticipating the next foot to fall!
I was going to say Throttle position sensor....my old rsv4 factory did the same thing...plugged the laptop in which it told me...tps sensor...
What about a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor or two? When I bought my bike, one was bad and it ran badly. Wouldn't rev high, lumpy idle. I replaced both, ran perfectly. My bike would always start though. Perhaps if both MAP sensors have failed, the bike may not start? Greg
FWIW, you can see the MAP sensor values in the Melcodiag software. Mine shows as 0 or 255/254 with just the iginition on (I'm not sure if thats right).
Hi all, Turns out the front was firing. Rear plug (vertical cylinder) swapped out and she fired straight up. Swapped both anyway and I’ve pictured below, how do these look? Front cylinder on left, rear cylinder on right. Still in the process of putting the bike back together.
@Lindsay McConnell Coincidentally, it was the same on my 899, the V cylinder prevented it starting. Replaced that plug and all fired up nicely but I had an intermittent misfire when riding, so I changed the H cylinder plug. Pleased it's going again, must be a relief.
Absolutely Paul. Been riding 20 years with about 7 bikes and all have been pretty faultless until this one, that includes a 899 which ran faultless for 16k. Lots of little issues with this bike, probably from lack of use to be honest. But yes relieved! Thank you all for your advice and particularly yourself Paul. Great place these forums when people are active and can help others out so quickly like in my case!
they look a little dirty. carbonated rather than oily it's likely it needs a good thrash to clean them out. Especially if you let it idle with a richer mixture. Could just be me but the gaps look large. But I have no idea what they spec is for Duc's - just comparing my old smoker days
On my 899, the old plugs had a gap of about 0.95mm after 9500 miles. New ones were about 0.6 to 0.7mm if that helps. I'm no longer convinced that the 'winter warm up' is the right approach? Maybe we should just turn the bike over on the starting motor with the fuel pump disconnected for a few turns to move the oil around??? Or maybe just do nothing apart from adding fuel stabilizer.
Absolutely agree... I don't think a 10 minute run is enough... It's going to just coke up the valves, plugs etc
