Massive thanks Nelly! Appreciate the rundown. I did notice the punch mark on the layshaft pulley isn't squarely on one tooth in the same way the cam pulleys are marked. I'll keep that in mind. I've ordered the this TDC Control Gauge - https://www.bike-parts-ducati.com/ducati-motorcycle/assignment_spare_parts/887138836 I'll also get the crank locking tool ordered in the morning. I'll keep this post updated as I progress... Slowly!
Progress update... Valve Clearances Vertical Cylinder I managed to get an hour or two this afternoon to remove the cam cover on the vertical cylinder and have a stab at measuring the clearances. As the crank turning tool hasn't turned up, I removed the a spark plug from each cylinder and just used the back wheel in 1st gear (not sure why everywhere keeps saying it needs to be 6th gear) to turn the engine over and rotate the cams so I could position the camshaft lobes to what I assume is a correct position for clearance checks??? I used these cam lobe positions for taking the measurements... Working from the 'Checking Clearance' values here... My results for the vertical cylinder are... Hopefully, if I've taken the measurements correctly the vertical cylinder is in good shape. The sliding shoes aren't showing any signs of wear, the closing lobes have no signs of wear at all, and the opening lobes have a very thin wear line through the middle. Not sure if that's normal for age and mileage? Some pics here... As I've been turning the engine over by hand to rotate the cams, some oil has pooled in the exhaust area of the head around the valve stems & shims. Is that an issue? Plan for Saturday afternoon is to remove the radiator to access the front cam covers and carry out the same checks as today. All being well and with results inline with today, that'll close out the valve clearances. One concern I have when I get to the belt change is the oil build-up / pooling in the head. as I'll be rotating the engine many times to get everything lined-up, I image I'll see quite a build up of oil. does it make sense to drain the oil now and replace after the timing belt work or is it okay to have oil collecting around the valve stems & shims. The horizontal cylinder will obviously just push the oil out and towards the ground. I'll top up the oil as needed at the end of the service. I'll be keeping the cam cover off for now as I'll be putting the Cam Lock (Reaction Tool) on for the belt change. All in all, to get the point where you can measure clearances isn't that bad. Most of the body work is very intuitive to remove, and the fuel tank & cover are well designed for removal too.
@Twinlover - I bet! Fingers crossed, I'm all good on the horizontal cylinder also. However, I'm down the rabbit hole now so if I have to take the cams out and and swap shims... I'll just have to get on with it. Any tips for changing closing shims? I see those tiny c-clips look a pain to refit.
I have a small electrical screwdriver which I magnetised the blade of and I use it to pick up the c- rings to remove them (once the closing shim is pushed down out of the way) and also to replace them. When replacing them smear some grease on the valve stem where the recess is which the rings sit in. When you position the ring with the screwdriver the grease helps hold it in situ whilst you pull the screwdriver away. Sometimes they don’t sit flush but at least they’re in the approximate right place and the grease holds them there whilst you push them into position with a non-magnetised tool. Also make sure the vertical head is at TDC then the valve won’t drop into the cylinder . Not so necessary with the horizontal, but still good practice, as gravity isn’t pulling it into the cylinder (as long as the bike’s on the level and you haven’t elevated the front end with an ABBA Skylift). Also, whilst your clearances are presently in spec, some are very borderline and you may want to think about changing them. Over future miles the closer gaps will get larger and the opener gaps will get smaller. Admittedly, many would just say ‘that’s fine’ and button it up but you are quite close to the limit on some.
True, they’ll reduce, until the 1/2 rings have settled/been flattened, then they’ll be back to where they are.
I usually fit new half rings to the closers out of spec, brings them right back. Ideally you should re shim and get the rings back in the way they came out but I can never see which is the worn side, and can’t guarantee they go in that way, they have a mind of their own on install! I too use grease on the ring and stem to help keep them in place.
A fantastic summation there, Paul. Sometimes it is also a pain in the ass to get the half rings off, after pushing the closer shims out of the way. One end of them always seems to have a sharp barb, which is probably the cause of this. A tap with a screwdriver can get it done, but can cause the half ring to fly off, never to be seen again, which in turn plays with your head incase it went somewhere you wouldn’t want it to, even though you had blocked off all the oil returns/spark plug hole etc
Oh, block the oil ways in the head with ear plugs, you don’t want a half ring falling down there, don’t forget to remove the plugs!!!!
Re oil drain holes, courtesy of LT Snyder, use a suitable diameter and length cap head bolt for blocking oil holes. Wrap a length of wire around it, just under the head, and bring the wire out and over the lip of the head. You’ll not fail to see the wire when you attempt to reinstall the valve cover.
Aren't there upgraded 1/2 rings available for these engines which can hold the clearances for longer? I know they are around for the earlier engines
I don’t know, are there? I just order the 1/2 rings from Ducati. I think LT Snyder does some tapered collets that can be used but I’ve no experience with them. The only tapered collets I’ve experienced are those fitted to the R engines and the 749S and they’re really tricky to get the closing shim off.
MBP did some modified collets, I can’t remember what years they were for. They were supposed to to combat the wear of the conventional half rings though.
A little progress made today... Looks like everything is lined up ready to bolt down the camshaft locking tool (Reaction tool) and then remove the belts. After testing this five times, the number of full turns of the layshaft to return to the position in the video is 27. Everything looks to be lined up correctly... 1, Camshaft lobes match the reference images in the workshop manual. 2, Camshaft section where the locking tool fits is flat/level. Allen key used/shown to check surfaces flush and tool would fit squarely. 3, Punch marks inline with head flat surface, and marks made by belt change at 6,000 miles match-up. 4, Crank / layshaft pulley mark lined-up. I'll be getting the radiator off tomorrow to remove the horizontal cylinder cam covers and spark plug to check for horizontal TDC matches with the setting in the video. Hopefully, then be able to lock the crank, bolt down the cam locking tool, and get the belts changed.
my experience on '19 plate 1260 (Std), 18k miles BELTS - you either do it yourself... or have a known/experienced indi to do it for you. I paid £75 for the belts and 3 x hours labour at my local west London indi. At least I have peace of mind it is now done (they hardly go wrong but hey ). Total cost (3 x 60)+74 = £254 DESMO includes the BELTS service plus spark plugs, all filters, engine oil change, brake oil replacement, valve adjustment/replacement (or which ever is needed), lub'ing of all parts and possibly fork oil replacement/adjustment. I was quoted £800-900 for both parts&labour. Still contemplating as I won't be doing many miles and the bike will solely be used abroad during summer months (up to 600m max). While costly, it is one of those items that if done properly (e.g. valves), the bike will perform and operate as it should. Again my 2c... while 18k desmo may not be must if the bike wasn't abused and track'd, 36k one would most certainly be (for me at least). Hope that helps!
Hi, sorry to bother you, I'm also doing the desmo service and I need the TDC locking tool for Multistrada 1260 S. Since it can't be found in Italy or it costs a lot, I would like to build it myself. Could you kindly send me all the possible dimensions to be able to build it? -The thickness; -Pulley hole diameter; -Width of the 3 locking teeth and the space between each of them; -Distance between the fixing holes and the locking teeth; -And Others etc... Thank you in advance. Good work and I await news in the post regarding valve thicknesses replacement. P.S. If you are interested I have the dimensions for the camshaft locking tool and crankshaft turning tool. Greetings from Italy.
