Well, I feel like my Darmah may have been assembled in Germany, then, with all four openers within 0.30 mm… I an halfway through with the closers. Got to at 0.01 by just replacing the closer by a 1 size up bigger one (measured by difference - shim turning through the entire cam shaft revolution), so that’s lucky. I am now grinding off a couple 1/100 one rhe remaining two to try and get the same result. When that’s done, I will be able to properly tackle the openers. Stay tuned ! Edit: Look what the postman brought me today!!!
Ooops got that wrong, it was the openers that were 3.48, 2.27, 3.31 & 4.03. The closers are 5.94, 7.23, 5.61 & 4.88 - which is just as random
A lot of the valve shim difference(s) can be introduced by having the seats replaced/ground. There's a lot of info in that book but what I found most useful were the pictures & technical dimension specs. The wiring diagram proved a godsend for me when doing the rewire.
Valve clearances are done. I soent some time in this, had to order a couple shims and sand a few more, but here’s where we stand: Vertical Cyl. - Intake Opening = 0.09 / Closing= 0.01 - Exhaust Opening = 0.15 / Closing = 0.01 Horizontal Cyl. - Intake Opening= 0.10 / Closing = 0.01 - Exhaust Opening = 0.14 / Closing = 0.01 And to a halfway done engine refurb. Need to sort the alternator wire seal, the pickups rewiring and set-up (waiting for the magic tool) and clutch overhaul.
And as I am waiting for my last orders, I have started to put the wiring and ignition on the frame. I am sticking with full OEM for now. I need to see it work. After a good clean, checking clean grounds and all, it’s really rewarding. Now the only discrepancy I found is a pair of cut wires just next to the horn loom. I haven’t confirmed with the wiring diagram yet, but I am betting on the side stand switch. We’ll see.
I spent quite some time faffing about trying to get the the clutch plates to move parallel (to each other) when pulling the lever in. Using various washers behind the springs, 3 strong & 3 weak springs, different tension on the spring bolts etc etc but each time it looked good I'd turn the engine half a rev and the plates would separate unevenly again. In the end I replaced the centre adjustment screw that the clutch pushrods operate on after noticing the end wasn't flat which I suspect was the major cause of the uneven operation.
My money would be on the side stand switch also... and what ever you do don't refit the side stand. Because of it's placement it's bloody useless and allows the bike to roll forward and off the stand.
Yeah... Tony really knows his stuff and is a bit of a perfectionist... well more than a bit really He stripped & rebuilt my Darmah engine many many moons ago after I dropped it and punched a hole through the RHS casing. And during it's recent recommission you could see my name scribed on the crank webs & engine cases. I'm not sure how much hands on stuff he does now above the production of tools like the above.
I have been working on the instruments this weekend. First cleaning the inside of the lenses that were unclean. And then testing the idiot lightbulbs. I found two were dead (high beam and left indicator). So I decided to reorder a complete set made of LEDs. Found it down under: https://alliedplastics.com.au/product/complete-set-of-ducati-replacement-lights/
Progress! With a new gasket (the small round one) for the alternator wires, the replacement cover is now back on the motor. Very happy with how this turned out. Looks brand new. Nb: Notice the brand new neutral switch! And I have steering and seat locks again. With keys.
The casting at the top of the rear bevel tube is the wrong way round. Doesn't make any practical difference, just looks crap.
Yep, I figured. I will adresse this kind of « discrepancies when I take the engine out, in a few years…
Is it not a case of it being the wrong way round but it's on the wrong cylinder - I'm assuming the front pot has the bevel support with horizontal fins. It does mean that at some point in it's life the heads and the upper bevel gear have been removed/dismantled. I must admit I can't remember if it houses the self aligning bearing or not but it's a real easy mistake to make - which of course I blundered into and made even after reading about it. Ho hum.
Not quite, no. There is only one type of casting - it has the ribs longitudinal one side and circumferential the other side. Your one is the right part, but fitted the wrong way round. Don't worry about it, but expect to get your leg pulled.
