Hi All, so we took the Stator out at the weekend, nice fairly simple job actually. We borrowed the puller from our friend who runs the Service department at a Ducati dealer. A few things we noticed which I would love some feedback on? - The Stator actually doesn't 'look' bad tbh, there was one winding that looks a bit black but overall it doesn't look bad. It's being tested but it may not be too bad, lets see. - The wire where is goes through the crankcase is the older style fitting so it has a plastic nut and then a screw in clamp; it had a bit of silicon sealant around the wire as it goes through, is this normal? any recommendations for re-fitting this, ie what stuff to use? - The main cover didn't have a gasket on; my understanding is that the early bikes used a gasket, the later ones use just a liquid gasket? again any thoughts? - The water pump seems a pain to line up, and when you put the case on, it sits about 2-3 mm off the mating surface so you would have to gently screw it down to fit, is this correct? maybe the gear selector gasket holds it back slightly? We have bitten the bullet and are putting a new Reg/Rec on the bike so hopefully we will see positive results when it is back together.
The 'acid test' is to do a continuity test using a ohm meter that is capable of measuring low resistances. The one black sector that you mentioned is obviously the area where the wires might have shorted out. The wires going through the crankcase must of course be protected from shorting out against the sides of the exit hole so the plastic clamp you mentioned sounds correct. The silicon was probably an attempt to stop an oil leak!
Use 3 bond or the Ducati Bond stuff to reseal the case. Make sure the surfaces are clean, clean, clean and clean again! I found the best way to line up the water pump was not to move it..:wink: If you have, then take off the water pump cover, then as you press the casing on you'll need to turn the impeller till it matches and drops into place.
Use hi-temp exhaust Silicone sealant. My '98 916 had liquid gasket and I resealed it with the same (threebond) - no leaks. Did you remove the water pump cover? makes it much easier to line up the shaft if you can turn it whilst refitting the cover.
Nope, left it there, but it's been put back on with some messy gasket also! so may just take it off so we can make sure the impellor is lined up properly and do a neater job of sealing it properly. Can I use 3 bond for all 3 bits? the water pump cover seal, the engine case and the seal for the stator lead?
I used a gasket for the water pump - because it had one originally and using threebond would mean the cover sitting closer than before, not sure how/if this might affect the pump? but since it all worked fine before I didn't want to risk it for the sake of a paper gasket. I reckon 3 bond would be fine for the cable seal, I believe there's already a rubber grommet so it's only adding to the oil in/water out seal.
Give it plenty of time to set before putting fluids back in....Believe me it's bloody miserable taking it all off again...:frown:
I have already thought about that yeah, will probably refit the stator and the case and then leave for a week and then tackle it the next weekend as it's really only the weekends we have now; evenings are okay but the neighbors don't really like the 45mm Termi's. Besides there are other jobs that need doing, checking all earths, maybe removing the rear shock for powder coating, removing the wheels and changing the Brake/Clutch fluids.
I'll ask him mate but he just needs tyres and his clutch is absolutely wrecked so I think he priority will be to get that sorted. We just heard from West Country windings and there was a faulty section of the Stator, so that's good news as they will rebuild it. They are testing the reg/rec now but the plan is to replace that for an electrex unit UNLESS the reg/rec is actually 100% fine
Hello, we finally got around to fitting the stator and casing etc, the only question I have is that the new reg rec says that it should be wired direct to the battery to eliminate bad earths etc in the original loom, that's fine but where does the white charge wire that's on the new reg/rec go too? I assume we loose the charge light functionality!
Tbh, we don't think it did! The new reg rec just has direct 'rings' to connect to the battery which is totally fine but leaves us with a block connector will 2 earth and 2 positive which I'm not sure if we should loop back on themselves or just leave completely.
Yeah I agree but can u just leave it or do u need to rejoin any wires? They actually just join back up anyway a little way back up the loom?
I think I removed the live back from the block connector to a bullet where I connected the reg rec live so that it still went throughout the 40 amp fuse, the earth from the block was completely removed so the earth from the reg rec went direct to the battery. Steve
Phill, I only just found this thread... I had similar issues with my 1999 748 last year... after chasing my arse around for a day, and breaking down three times at PEMBREY, the fault was found to be that a 30 amp fuse had blown that was part of the charging circuit... (located just by the battery) I can't recall all the signs, but checked every thing according to Haynes manual with volt meter, which was confusing. Seem to recall that readings were ok until bike went above approx 5000 rpm... New fuse fixed it ("new fuse" was originally about 14 gauge wire that got just a little bit hot - until I got to Halfords !) Bob
