TRUST ME, crank balance on these engines is critical, as is all v engines, maybe there are folk not bothering to balance but it is inviting trouble. any imbalance also wastes power. as for the crank bearings, i have stripped a few of these and found the crank preload to be too heavy from the factory, this gives premature wear to the main bearings. it seems that the drive side suffers most on motors i have stripped.
No idea Chris but last time I did it both heads exhaust\inlet were at max. Spike can not comment re HC pistons except have them in monster for 14k now no issues and people around here had them for years. If I ever get time I will strip bottom end and do balancing (or if it fails). Re SS I still did not decide if I will put HC pistons but defo need to sort heads.
Crap bike 1 me 0. Forgot I do not have the tool for top yoke. No worries will start from back .... Out of 4 screws holding the rear mud-guard two have sheared at head, one rounded off and one went out with no hassle. Had to drill the head off the rounded off one to remove mud-guard. Now do I drill the sheared bolts out? It is an alloy swing-arm. Front mud-guard not much better two out of 4 white mounts had to be cut off. On good note frame is now off the engine be it with yokes still attached but progress.
From what I found inside my SS engine they just slapped the things together any old hoo?? My hi-comps are 90grams lighter per piston, bike is less vibey than before though... If they hit some big revs then hey - get the crank balenced. many of us will never afford either the time, money or interest to do so? Its a very simple motor capable of putting up with a lot wrong before it will blow its guts out.
Be careful what you are saying, remember it is you who has the bike with ugly square light and even clean it still looks bad. My one will be beautiful one day.
Dont envy you having to clean that lot up, would have made a good winter project tho? Mine took much sweat & scrubbing to go from this: to this: Get busy.
Well it is a winter project, have monster to ride till it explodes, pisses oil again or dumps all petrol from tank in to engine when I am not looking.
A fix for the yoke nut is to drop the forks through the yokes and use the top yoke clamped to the ally nut and tap it round with rubber mallet. Don't dispair with all the pokey comments, it will look well when done and the fact you have done it yourself will give added pleasure, just SEEMS like a bitch at the mo! keep plodding on.
So me 8 bike 1, cylinder heads are off, pictures of inside: - Vertical cylinder - vertical head: - horizontal cylinder gave more fight: - horizontal head: Me thinks heads are quite bad
Personally, this all looks quite ok to me and is what i would have expected, it's certainly not knackerd, heads are black but thats usuall, nice even burn on the crown of the piston and suggests the carbs/ fuelling is not far out, also a good line around the squish area, maybe needs tightening up a little but not much. exhaust valve will tell the real story but at first look don't seem bad, valve does not seem recessed. i would guess at valve seat worn on valve but head ok, keep your fingers crossed.
After looking again at the pics i noticed these are the later non oil cooled barrels, be very wary if you are thinking about big bore or high comp pistons, if you go this route these will destroy themselves at high power levels. they sieze the bore just behind the belt area where there is not enough cooling. good luck with the project.
I thought that was the valve open, if its been sitting a while they do sometimes stick. if its a bent valve, why has it happened? were there any indicators like a snapped belt? again , if its a bent valve and thats all no problem, may have cracked a guide but again no problem, its when it destroys the seat it gets expensive. I do have a selection of valves. guides available from ducati (crap) or kibblewhite (top notch) for little money.
