Some say its there as part of the manufacturing process Some say its there to get a hook behind to extract the plate Some say the spring plates that you are not too sure whether you have any or how many, or which way around they are, are identified by a dimple opposite this notch They serve no other purpose and dont need to be in line...
I know it works to some extent. Back wheel spins in neutral, won't spin in gear, will spin if I pull the clutch in.
This will give you one method of setting the stack height for future reference. Motorcycle Slipper Clutch Operation and Adjustment Steve
What you saying, me turning the rear wheel should engage the slipper clutch? I would imagine it needs more torque than I can produce.
In theory, at least they should be evenly spaced around the clutch to keep it balanced (all in line would leave a 'light spot'). In reality it probably matters very little but I always fit them evenly spaced - put one in then turn the clutch 2-3 teeth before the next one goes in.
After years of riding my duke with a STM slipper clutch I rode one without the other day.Christ it felt shit.Id deffo recommend them and I only use my bike on the road no track use. Im sure the guys that service my ducati said its a specific grease they use not the normal run of the mill.Im with Andy B on this one.A badly set up slipper clutch is also shit to ride.Why not pay Baines to sort it out properly and maybe if they are like my duke dealer they will let you watch and talk you through it. I found two things improved use and feel of my STM slipper clutch. 1- Getting it fitted and set up correctly by experienced ducati racing guys 2 -The selection of the clutch plates ( I went for bronze sintered racing but you can chose others from ducati) and the addition of a brembo/accosato etc clutch radial master cylinder.If you ever go down the STM 48t basket and clutch plate kit route these plates are the same type im using also.They are harsher on clutch basket but give better feel and performance compared to ally from my experience trying both. Also id buy a spare spider spring if you have the old type STM fitted.Pic 1 new version.Pic 2 old type.
Mines more like the second one. It felt fine the 3 times I rode it appart from grabbing a bit when hot. I was hoping a good clean out might sort it as its been stood quite a while. I'd like to learn to do it myself but maybe I'll let Geoff get it 100% so I have a good base/bench mark.
The top one is the STM Evo' clutch. Very nice bit o' kit. Loads easier to dismantle, you can also fix the two drum halves together prior to disseminating. This prevents the sodding ball bearings dropping out!
As Mr B has eluded to, it's all in the stack height AND the distance from the last plate to the top of the inner drum. Clearly one is relative to the other of course. Personally, and this is just my own experience, I've never worried about the dished plates, I may have some in there, I may not, I just get the stack in the the correct order, the height right and the last plate to drum distance correct and away ya go.... Slip sliding away.... Fucking Ducati dry clutches belong more in the realm of Gandalf and Middle Earth rather than the realm of men!
The old type is the one I have fitted.Ive tried newer design STM evoluzione and EVR diaphragm spring type slipper clutches and much prefer the older 6 spring type.All due to the feel of 6 spring compared to diaphragm.I also prefer the older 12t clutch plate and basket design as I found the 48t kit made a right racket after a few miles. You definitely saved a few quid if that came fitted to bike but if you don't like the slipper clutch it will fetch decent money used on forums or ebay and go back to standard.Standard is cheaper to maintain.
I want the bike 100% original long term (or at least have the bits) so when I have a few spare £££ I may try a standard clutch then make the choice. Cheers
I can understand wanting standard to sell but if riding the more standard you go the worse it gets imho.That STM clutch is so much better than what ducati gives you as standard. They don't just slip they also smooth the engine braking.So helpful if you get caught out in damp slippery conditions.The brembo upgrade 18x16 clutch radial master cylinder is also a lot better than standard ducati part especially with slipper clutches.
The half moon cut-outs are not meant to be lined up; put them back in some rough order, such a 12 o'clock, three o'clock, 6, 9 etc etc. but does not need to be exact The idea is that as they are slightly weighted differently it helps the clutch pack to break up when it disengages... Not sure how much difference it makes as I've stripped many a clutch that does not have such as design... As I suggested on a previous post, a good strip and clean does no harm; and with a slipper I'd suggest more often than standard. I'd do mine every 1000 miles or 2/3 track days... It is worth checking the rubber seal on the clutch rod (you can take this out without removing the whole clutch). They are a few pence each. I used to get JHP to pop a load in the post. I'd also recommend bleeding the clutch quite often, as that can cause a grabby action... Only time I've every checked the stack height is when setting up a brand new slipper; after that, I strip, clean, measure friction pad thickness and put it back...
