Ok, I think the problem may be with your new tight-fitting clutch plate tangs jamming in the basket slots as they expand, preventing them from separating properly as the pressure plate lifts. How do I know this?? Same problem... I think I have fixed it now. I have taken out all the new friction plates, except the bottom two and replaced with the old ones. As the new ones wear in, I will replace with new two at a time, always putting the new ones at the bottom.
i see.. that explains it... but i could simply eliminate this problem by just removing one of the steel plates?
That kind of adds up. I read on one link I think I posted that the clutch gets noisy(er) because it moves more in the clutch basket as groves appear from the constant banging. The quite mode moves the friction plates to a new location in the basket so they are no longer in the worn groves so move less and therefore bang less, until new groves appear, then it's loud again or new basket time. So, if the new friction plates are slightly wider they may stick slightly. But I know foxtrot oscar to be honest.
No, not if I'm right. The problem is not stack height, it is the extra width of the tangs on the pattern friction plates. I recommend putting a friction plate in first, as per quiet clutch mod, then two of the new plates, followed by your old plates. Plain plates alternating of course. I'm sure this will work
I've seen this and imho, it's totally wrong. The quiet clutch mod works by taking advantage of the way the clutch basket slots are machined - they have a curved bottom to the slots, which as standard makes no difference because a plain plate goes in first, therefore the first friction plate doesn't go to the bottom of the slots and remains in the parallel sided portion of the slots. However, if you put a friction plate in first, the tangs will sit down into the bottom of the curves at the end of the basket slots, jamming it into place and preventing it from moving within the slot. That bottom friction plate then dampens the movement of the whole stack, eliminating the racket and cutting right down on wear of both tangs and basket. Derek reckons to get 30,000 miles or so out of a clutch with the quiet clutch mod. Of course, many people don't want to have quiet clutches, they hear the noise as 'music' (each to his own) and others are worried that the extra friction plate places an extra side load on one of the bearings. However, I have heard of no cases of this causing premature failure bearing failure.
ive done the quiet clutch mod, but the stack height is too large with the +1 old friction plate. so instead il just rearrange the existing new plates and put a friction in first. and if need be, il use a couple of old ones instead of the new ones to eliminate the dragging.
@Old rider ive done your method, and it works for a few minutes, and when the engine gets hot. BAM. its draggin like a cunt again.... here are the pics of my new plates vs Old plates, as you can see the old ones has a thicker notch, but a smaller one in length...
i havent bled the system... but then again, i havent introduced any air into the system either... il bleed it tomorrow just to eliminate one more potential problem.But Id be extremely surprised if it was the hydraulics....l
I think he has the same issue I had, which is slightly oversize pattern plate tangs binding in the slots. As they bind, the clutch drags more and heats up, so the problem suddenly gets a lot worse. I've completely cured my problem by putting some old plates at the top of the stack, so the clutch can clear. It works so well that at rest, I can now easily engage neutral by tapping down from second. I've always found it much easier to tap up from first in the past.
the problem with my old ones is that, they are completely destroyed, its all glazed and some of the fibres have literally come off...so i dont know if i can use them still?
Yes, that's exactly what was happening to me. The cure was to put new plates at the bottom of the stack and old ones at the top. To be absolutely sure of success, I only put 2 or three new ones in but the clutch is working so spectacularly well now that I'm sure I could have got away with more new plates. However, I still think it's wise with these pattern plates to have more old than new to start with to ensure no dragging. Then after a month or so, the new plates will hopefully have 'run in' so you can put the rest of the new plates in but put them at the bottom of the stack again or the terminal drag will return. If you want to be more cautious, do it in three stages rather than two.
If the clutch was working better with those plates than with the new ones, why not use them? It's only temporary. Once the new plates bed in over the next month or two you can remove the old ones in stages and have all new.
