Broken Bleed Nipple

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Cream_Revenge, Mar 29, 2015.

  1. Expensive and too soft for the application, even 9 karat :)
     
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  2. Heavy too
     
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  3. Doh.,sounds like you've been unlucky and you have my sympathy.
     
  4. I did the same about a year ago, keep meaning to fix it....
     
  5. Not being the only one makes me feel better.
     
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  6. Relplace the hose Union bolt with one with bleed nipple.
     
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  7. The number I have for the M6 bleed nipple is 4Nm... The 12Nm figure is for the bigger one used on the radial cylinders (M10 I think), rear calipers etc.
    If it's not leaking, the suggestion above regarding using a bleed banjo is a good one. Gives a better cylinder bleed as well.
     
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  8. Dare you not utter his name....! :Nailbiting::Muted:
    [​IMG]
     
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  9. From the Ducati 748-9*6 Service manual, which is what I use particularly when building a bike from scratch. They seem to be quoting 9 + or - 10 NM's for the torque figure.

    To do up nuts etc. with very low torque settings I use a Torque screwdriver which has a small square drive on the end and you set the torque by dialling it into the body of the driver. Doing it that way ensures that you are less likely to put too much pressure on a nut or bolt that has a very low setting. It comes supplied with a small tommy bar to ease up settings that the driver used only by the handle can't quite reach.

    Capture12456.JPG
     
  10. Yep, the torque charts are sometimes a little wayward imo. For me, a stock M6 screw has a DIN standard of 9-10Nm. Other factors come into play when you change to hi tensile or fine pitch threads, but for my mind, a bleed nipple is also hollow so 10Nm for me is too high, never mind 12Nm. Overtighten and the taper seat gets damaged, and if that happens it'll leak.
    I've always tightened by hand, but that comes with time I guess.

    As an aside, I think the "front brake master cylinder screw" in the picture is relating to the clamp screws.
     
  11. Just nip those nips...(.)(.)
     
  12. Thanks all, you can't teach experience I guess.
     
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  13. Never always clear what stuff is with the manuals, if it's M6 this is more likely to be the pin that the lever rotates on :Bookworm:
     
  14. at least it wasnt a broken Speed Triple. :Banghead:
     
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  15. That would have been a real shame (not).

    I would have no idea how to remove a broken Needy Nipple :confused:
     
  16. Enough. Just sign the divorce papers already! :D
     
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  18. If it's not leaking and tight all is fine nothing will go wrong.
    From experience--- broken off easyouts, drills carbon steel and the like can be drilled out using great care with 'A TUNGSTEN MASONRY DRILL' sharpened up to a cutting edge I drilled a hole right down the middle of tool steel thread tap just to prove the point once. I'm not saying it's easy, takes time and a steady hand. Once all the hard metal is removed re drill with a normal drill to fit a big as you can fit easyout.
     
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  19. You're posts make me smile so much if you PM me you're address I'll post you my spare M/C to use until yours is fixed.
    TBH though I snapped a nipple in a caliper years ago and as it's usually over tightened for this to happen, I just swore for a second then fucked off for a ride and forgot about it.
     
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