i think the only thing is the stack height, i still do not have digital verniers to measure it accurately. i havent tried greasing the push rod, what type of grease is best suited for that?
It's important to clean it as well as grease it. I used white lithium but I 'm sure it doesn't matter. Digital calipers are really useful - I think I saw some in Halfords... Is the extra friction plate at the bottom an old or new one? Better if it's an old one as it will sit further down into the curve with its worn tangs. Are you sure you are getting the full stroke from the clutch lever? If you put the adjustment pointer past the last digit instead of on it, you actually get less, rather than more maximum span from the lever.
Another thing occurs to me. I saw a tip a little while ago on how to get the last bubbles of air out of your hydraulics. The suggestion is to tie your clutch lever right back to the handlebar and leave it overnight Has to be worth a try ...
hey! thanks for the tip, i shall try that as well. i havent had time to do anything on it since last time, so tomorrow im free and i will be greasing the push rod, and swapping the quiet clutch mod friction plate to one of the old ones as im currently using a new friction plate for the quiet mod. so like you said, using an old one will sit further down in the basket which should give me more clearance during clutch disengagement.
If you've got time, file the tangs to roughly match the curve of the slots they are sitting in. This will bed them down even further and also stop them cutting in and creating a step
it is finally fixed! clutch working like it was before, and MOT passed today as well... although the tester didnt seem to like having my clutch open... he said he would have failed if it was included in the MOT test.... wtf? he also told me that the clutch cover bolts hold the entire clutch in place and that i risk loosing the clutch basket and hub while riding... how is that even possible? wtf
You do have an open cover of some sort with bolts holding it on do you? Two of the bolts do do more than just hold the outer cover on, although they won't allow the clutch itself to come loose, as your MOT tester appears to believe - I can't help wondering what he'd make of @Mr.R 's clutch, which has the sides of the plates exposed as well...
To be honest, I'm not surprised your MOT tester wasn't happy. I too would consider that dangerous for riding on the road. When people talk about an open clutch, they generally mean an open clutch cover, not no clutch cover at all. Also, the MOT tester is partially right in suggesting you should not be running the bike with no bolts, at least two of the bolts are actually involved in holding the engine together, they don't just hold the outer cover in place. These are the bolts at 8.00 and 11.00. Those ones need to be reinstated asap - probably all the long bolts, actually. I would also get yourself some kind of open cover asap as even if the MOT tester can't fail it, as it's outside his remit, I strongly suspect a police officer would take a dim view of it and declare it too dangerous to ride on public roads. Did you really take it to be tested with the side fairing missing?? That's brave...
:Wideyed: don't get your flares caught in there ! So you like the idea of the "quiet clutch mod" but you aren't using a cover of any description, sorry but it's completely lost on me :Banghead:
Got one of those, don't like it. As it is now, it's nice and jangly with lever in, nice and quiet, lever out and no longer plain-Jane - luvverly
this isnt how i actually ride my bike... i was in the middle of adjusting the clutch and it wasnt quite right yet, so i never installed the fairings and the open carbon clutch cover that i normally use. i knew he couldn't fail me on the clutch nor the fairings, so i took it like that... this, is how my bike normally looks. p.s not washed in this pic :|
