So progress has been slow to say the least and nursing cracked ribs hasn't made the job easier. Still I have got all the front electrics, clocks, headlight and fairing sub frame off. Got the spark plugs out without any problems, and have now disconnected the headers with only one stud coming out of the head. The rear wheel is out. All the loom connections have been labeled and have got the front loom section and the ignition lock complete with the top yoke off as well. Now the problem bits, I can not separate the rear header section, so until I can remove the swing arm I can't get it out, which means I can't drop the engine as the trolly won't fit with the headers in the way. I have had to give up on getting the filler neck out of the tank as it just won't budge. I have invested in some super fine cutting blades for the jig saw and will see if cutting a relief into the filler will allow me to get it out. I have found a local company who claim they can soda blast the engine, so once it is free of the frame and the orifices taped up that will be done. I'll get some pictures up at the weekend of the present state
Now if you had knocked up a rear stand based on mine, getting the swingarm and the zorst off wouldn't be too difficult.........see below......
I think you will find the paint is holding the bottom of the tank together,it looks like mine was inside,be careful with chain adjusters as they will be seized in and tend to snap.
@mcr998 If you need someone whose ribs are fine to pop round and give you a hand dropping, pulling and hitting stuff I'm happy to help.
Both my tanks were holed, I've fiberglassed them up. I didn't want to weld them as the paint is ok. Used a little bit of resin and mat on the outside the when this has set poured resin into the tank to give a good internal seal.
I have set some Normfest Super Crack Ultra to work on my chain adjusters today... my goodness they were quite stuck!
I'm still soaking these buggers with Dblock. On the plus side my blind bearing puller has arrived so I will now be able to coax the cush drive rubbers out
Fortunately my cush drive rubbers were in good shape. I'm investigating how to free the adjusters. Are the blocks alloy or aluminium? Hmmmm...
So not a lot further in terms of stripping the beast down however I am slowly getting there. Here are a few more pictures to amuse you all. At last I have found Squirrel Nutkins secondary nut store Close up shot of the rear cylinder with the exhaust removed and one stud to boot. Close up of the front cylinder Belt covers off, now minus the spiders nest that was festooning the entire cavity. New belts and rollers all round plus new adjustable pulleys if I can get hold of them. Do you think the belts will be any good Last but not least the clutch. The bearing still rotates freely, but I think the seals are well and truly shagged, as are the clutch plates by the look of them. So new slave seal and clutch pack to find from somewhere:Banghead:
I have a wet clutch 750 engine available................. ...............the only thing is that it has the rest of the bike attached to it.
don't think the pictures look as bad as stew's 900 ss when he started his thread in the builds and projects never let an inanimate object win
