If you start from a set reference point you can measure from a position on the sub frame. Or borrow a proper tool to check the setting, then reference it to a point on the sub-frame so future measurements can be converted to standard set up measurements as if you have used the tool. Save some Wonga
You'll need one of these too. 12"/300mm High Precision Rule with Certificate of Calibration Traceable to UKAS - Whittam Precision Rules, Bolton, UK It's UKAS calibrated so reasonably accurate
The good old section 8 settings: (my initial basis for setting up a track bike - ride then adjust for preference) 748/916/996/998 -Stage One- This will improve the steeringof the bike a lot simply because the bikes come with very little preload and therefore sits low in the back. 1. Set the sag at 35mm front and 30mm rear A few notable points: The stock Ohlins shock springis set up for a 165lbrider with gear. Consult the Ohlins spring chart for the correct spring application for you. The stock Showa Biposto shock has a stiffer spring which works better for American sized riders. The fork springs will be anywhere from .95kg-1.05kg depending on what year your bike is. The nice thing about this is that the forks are set up for aggressive riding and work great for heavier riders, the down side is that they are a bit harsh for the lighter riders. Regardless you should be able to get the correct sag numbers out of the stock fork springs. -Stage Two- This is the same set up I ran on my 998Rfor the 2002 race season. It works very well considering it does not require the magnesium arm and a set of triples. Every person we have done this for has raved about how their bike steers. If you ride twisty roads, do track days or race you should be outside putting these numbers in your bike right now. 1. Push the forks up through the triple clamps until the 4th line is even with the top of the triple between the fork tubes (fig 1). 2. Raise the ride height in the rear, this is where it gets fun. Due to the fact that the single side swingarm is on an eccentric, the ride height and wheelbase change when you adjust the chain. The next problem is that you can not measure ride height by the ride height adjuster. Ducati has a tool that plugs into the frame and extends back over the axel to accurately measure ride height, but not many people own one…including us. We made our own, so of course our numbers do not translate. What's the solution you ask? Well we cheated. We are measuring to a fixed point on the subframe, while not entirely accurate due to the fact the subframe flexes, swivels when loose, etc it is the best solution we could come up with aside from selling everyone a Ducati ride height tool. If you follow the steps below you will be 98% accurate when setting ride height. • Set the eccentric at 6:00 (fig 2). You will never end up at exactly the 6:00 position with the chain adjusted, but you need to baseline it here so you are aware of where it ends up when the chain is adjusted. If, when the chain is adjusted it is outside the effective range you may run into an issue of not being able to get enough ride height or you may extend the tie rodtoo far and run the risk of it coming apart. When the chain is adjusted, the effective range is between 4:00-6:30, I think 5:30 is preferable. If your eccentric is outside of this range with the chain adjusted you will need to shorten/lengthen your chain. Set your chain tension before going on to the next step. Once you have set your chain tension and the eccentric is in the correct range you will be ready too set your ride height. No matter where it ends up in the range you will use the same ride height numbers. But keep in mind if you change sprockets, adjust your chain or look at it with bad intentions you will need to set you ride height again. Fig. 2 • Set the bike up on jack stands. I have found putting them under the footpegs or footpegbrackets works best. • Make sure the subframe bolts are tight (most are not). Make sure the subframe is “pushed” all the way down in it's possible arc (when the bolts are loose) • With the tire unloaded measure from the top of the sprocket carrier nut to the center of the upper exhaustmounting bolt ( the figure 8 piece) (fig 3) the measurement should be 604mm. Remember this is not entirely accurate because of the obvious variables, but without the tool this is as good as it gets. Fig. 3 • Your ride height is most likely too low. If it is, loosen the ride height adjuster jam nuts (one is reverse thread) and lengthen the tie roduntil you get 604mm. If you can not get the jam nuts loose or are afraid of stripping them (which happens more often that not) you can use a little heat, or take thetie rodout, loosen it on the bench then pack it full of Anti Sneeze. -Stage Three- 1. Buy A Magnesium arm and a set of triple clamps with 27mm of offset. About $3000 on a good day.
Got one made up in the end. Had it laser cut to the drawing on this thread. Just waiting to get the frame bobbins and the axle cone made up. Might take it into the dealers and ask if they'll compare it to theirs to see if there's any difference.
Piece of masking tape on the seat unit above the rear axle, then draw a horizontal line (doesn't have to be perfect as it's a comparison). Now get a mate to pull the bike over on its side stand so the back wheel is off the ground. Measure from the centre of the wheel axle to the line on the masking tape. Now put the bike on both wheels, get the mate to hold it vertical, bounce the suspension a bit to settle, then measure the same points. The difference is your static sag and should probably be in the range of 15-30mm?. Adjust your preload to suit. Now you have the static sag done you can adjust your ride height to make it steer fast or slow knowing that the sag is still good. Now get your mate to hold the bike vertical with you in your gear sat on the bike, again bounce to settle the suspension. Get another mate to measure the axle to line measurement, this is your rider sag. Not exactly sure of the measurements but it should be around 1/3rd of the full stroke. Repeat with the front but you can use the bottom of the stanchion to the bottom of the lower yoke. Same results for a few pence and a beer for the mates.
