I'd just put that away with all the other related stuff, would be a shame to get it all faded and scratched. It looks great
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F-me that's in good nick........ But I'll bet those silencers and header pipes have been changed or coated with something........they don't look that good after just 1000 miles even if wiped over with WD40. Anyway...........A couple little things to watch out for while you are piddling around and getting it ready..... 1) Check the centre stand for cracks where the brace is and where the kick horn sticks out. 2) Make sure you get used to the sidestand....Immediate flip-up only......Always park uphill if using the sidestand. 3) When putting it on the centre stand, hold the grab handle with the right hand, clip on with the left.....then wheel it backwards and push down on the centre stand horn with right foot............It will just roll onto the stand (unless you miss with your foot that is). 4) You may find a slight weep of oil from an oilway drilling boss just forward of the gearbox oil level plug......There is a lead plug in the centre and a small thump with a decent round end drift should cure it.
I'm told they're the originals, the left silencer has a dent and a few scuffs and although I told myself I'd keep it original, I have to confess to having bought (few beers, late night, bored etc.) some replacement, Lafranconi competizione exhausts; It's the swirly red bits that got me... :Shamefullyembarrased:
Lafranconi's sound awesome on a Guzz..................Goooooooooood choice Keep the originals to sell for a gazzilion squid along with the seat on Flea Bay. Me I'd take off a lot of the original stuff and store it so as not to damage then bastardize MKI it or cafe it a bit. Then put all the original stuff back when you come to sell it. Lucky Lucky guy, had it out yet? It'll be different from the Duck
Must say I am tempted to fit a MKI type fairing & headlight. But first I need to get it sorted for use. The brakes are very spongy, particularly the footbrake which has a huuuuuge travel without actually doing anything, the oil is at least a couple of years old and whilst it starts first push of the button and idles smoothly, a good going over/service is definitely on the cards.
With reference to the Lafranconis, you need to up the jet sizes, but sorry; for the life of me, I can't recall what sizes and what the needle position should be....... ....somewhere someone will have the original settings for the Lafranconi set-up, but it will no doubt be in Italian..........took ages to get a proper translation in those days. Throttle travel is cured with a Tomasselli; but don't bother until you have got used to the throttle as it is........A LeMans rarely needs the second haul on the throttle. Brakes......careful fiddling around with the combined system balance unit......flush it out by all means, but I don't recommend taking it apart. If the footbrake is bad, then one disc won't be working either......although the front brake lever should work both discs.
I'm not sure but are the brakes linked on the Le Mans? ie: "Rear" brake lever controls the rear and one front disc through some sort of proportioning valve, not sure how it works or if its even on that bike.............Al will know. Heard that they can be a right old sod to bleed, but that's hearsay again Al will clarify. How are the throttle cables fed to the carb? Is it twins on the throttles or a single going to a splitter? A Tomaselli 2C throttle will shorten the travel, but may make it heavier. If its a single cable to a splitter then you'd need to make up new cables (or buy some) as the 2C has 2 cables going direct from the throttle to each carb. I modified mine fitting lighter carb return springs, flat tops on the carbs and a little 90 deg cable runner, on each carb top, they run the cable over a small roller bearing. Its not exactly an Accusato but its an improvement over the standard offering AND AL BEAT ME TO IT :Arghh:
I never had any issues bleeding the brakes, even when I stripped the bike right down and fitted Goodridge hoses during the rebuild. Throttle cables should be a single cable for each carb.
Go to Gutsibits' website and look for carb tops. You've got Dellorto pumpers on your bike and it's the mechanical action of the pumper bits that make the throttle heavy. Gutsibits' kit gets rid of the pumpers and just sits a plastic cap straight on top, the cables acting directly on the slides. Only about £40. If your carbs are 40mm you're in luck, I got a set of carb tops sat in my kitchen...
The pumpers are what makes the Lemon respond so well...........I wouldn't have changed the carb tops for love nor money............ ...........you just have to develop a strong grip in both hands (one for throttle, one for clutch).
Now I could have this all wrong but I don't think the carb tops have anything to do with the accelerator pumps which are high up on the carb at the back. The tops that are on your bikes I THINK are bell cranks, removing these and fitting the flat tops & tubes MAY lighten it slightly, I also think the bell cranks had return springs in them too, hence the reason some people get rid of them. In that previous posted second photo you can see the top of them and the top securing cap screw Waits for a torrent of abuse and to be told he's a complete imbecile
I stand happily corrected, I know naff all about carbs. But the bell cranks is what adds to the strain. Get shot I say, no point in struggling.
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