And now I know why it's so heavy; all the frame parts including footrest hangers, clip-ons, brackets etc. are made from steel (mostly around 5mm thick) the plastics are thick fibreglass and the battery is from a car! Other than the engine casings and wheels there's little aluminium (except the rear brake fluid reservoir!) and there's definitely no billet, carbon fibre or titanium parts - still as long as I keep it away from water it should last forever. And it cost nearly £30 to fill the tank...
The funny thing with the Magni is the skinny wheels way twice and then some of the 1098's fatty rear. People think I'm strong when lift up the 1098's big rear like its a feather but laugh at me when I've got the Magni's as I need both arms if I'm carrying it any distance, its alloy but I'm beginning to think it Tungsten alloy...............unbelievable Your going to go a lot further on the Guzz between tankfuls than the Duc, I hate the 1098's lack of range.
If you want a LeMans II to accelerate quickly so you can overtake, don't just open the throttle and wait for it....... .........cog down once or twice even and then whack the throttle open...... ....then you will find out why you shouldn't junk the pumper carbs.... BTW....I did from North East Colchester to St Austell..........352 miles at approx 80mph constant all the way.......didn't even go onto reserve from a brimmed tankful.
To update, I have made a few changes. Reversed the gearshift to 1 up, 4 down combined with rearsets. De-linked the brakes & rebuilt the calipers with new seals and alloy pistons (old chrome pistons had some rust and were sticking) Fitted braided hoses (the rubber hoses were date stamped 1979) & changed the master cylinders to get the right ratio now that the brakes are de-linked - smaller bore master on the rear & larger Brembo RCS 15 on the front. Fitted a Le Mans 1 style fairing (had to do it!) and at the same time changed the indicators (LM2 are integrated in the fairing), simplified the instruments to suit, fitted a Ducati Monster round headlight and some new (longer) clip-ons as the originals don't fit with the new fairing and master cylinder. No longer completely original, but I like it; Just need to get some suitable mirrors...
Gearshift was conventional but I changed it to suit my preference, trouble is that it's not as easy to do on as on a Ducati because the gear change shaft is on the back of the gearbox so I moved the pivot point of the rearset linkage forward and then flipped the link arm so I could come at the shaft from the other side.
You mean you prefer it the wrong way round? Didn't have any issues like that when I fitted rearsets to mine........ But I did fit the sump extension (like a sandwich unit) but the filter was still inside....
Yes, I like it 'wrong'. All the available rearsets are the 'correct' way round so it took some engineering (new mounting bracket, cut & weld the linkage) to get it 'backwards' but, whilst I've never got it wrong if riding another bike, I wanted all mine to be the same. As for the sump it is a complete new sump that has been made with the filter recessed into the bottom, so it has the benefits of the sump extension, i.e. oil further from crank, better cooling etc. but means the filter is easy to swap.
lookin very nice for sure,, and i expect that you want to keep it OEM looking,, but i remember seeing the racing ones at the Bol D Or back in the early eighties, three quarter frame mounted fairings , belly pan, single seat etc etc,, not the fastest on the grid but one of the best looking and sounding.
To complete the Mk1 look, the OP needs to find one of these......... PS......Don't go replacing the timing chain and sprockets for gears...... ........complete waste of time and money........ ....better off getting triplex chain and sprockets (got mine from Bernies at Watford mid 80s, so they could possibly have some at Baines Racing) plus making a better tensioner / slipper.
You mean like these Al? These are steel & pricey I would never consider the Alloy ones The chains are fine but as Al said the tensioner is mince I think I've got one from Stein Dinse somewhere its for a sqaure head and I'm not sure if there is any difference (I don't think there is) They look like this
That's them.....the alloy ones were badly worn after 1500 miles and the steel ones were excessively noisy, but I think that was because the teeth were almost straight cut with less of a bevel near each tooth tip......... The Triplex chain and sprockets were much quieter..........they may have been purpose made, so it was only down to making the tensioner adjustable (as well as self adjusting).
Well, my joy was short lived; went for a good blast on it today, did around 180 miles and it was running really well. Then when almost home it seemed a little hesitant, thinking it might fuel starvation as it was around the point where it would need reserve I filled the tank. Still seemed a bit 'weak' afterwards and when I stopped at some traffic lights it wouldn't idle unless I held it around 2k rpm. On the rest of the ride home I thought I could hear a bit of rattle on the left side but wasn't sure if it was a new noise or just that I was looking for it (the left cylinder has always rattled a bit more than the right). Got it home and it still wouldn't idle, fuel seems OK as does spark and plugs look OK but whilst the plugs were out I did a quick compression test; Right cylinder - 155psi Left cylinder - 70psi Now I don't know what is considered a healthy compression on an LM2 but I would have thought 155psi was in the ball park? but 70 definitely not good. Not looked in the head yet and not looking forward to doing so...
Has it been converted for unleaded? I'm thinking valve guides.......unless of course the rocker adjustment has shifted somehow. If it means a head-off job, it isn't difficult.......in fact it's really simple. I have done head-off, valves, guides, rings and bores while the engine is still in the frame......and even if the cylinder to crankcase gasket gets torn and you need a new one, thickness of the gasket isn't a problem.......The whole job is easier with the engine on the bench, though. Check the cam-followers while you are at it though........the parkerising on the OEM ones pitted very quickly............you can get exactly the same ones from a Fiat dealer (fit an early Fiat). If you need it bored, get it Nikasil coated, but if you use chrome rings, take it very easy for several thousand miles.
Before taking it too far apart, torque the heads (30 ft-lbs) and re-set the tappets (6&8). Had to do that at Spa last week as everything had closed up and lost most compression on one side (about same readings as yours). Sorted it as above.
