question is, smooth or rough? I've seen conflicting advice. Some say port the heads roughly on input side when using carbs.
OK - frame and wheels nearly ready to go to blasting company. Lots of rust that was hidden. How does one get the frame ID plate off WITHOUT leaving the back of the rivet in the frame tube (to forever rattle about annoyingly!)
That's no the vin number on the plate, if you look at your frame number it will be different, my 400 doesn't have one on.
I wouldnt worrie about the back of the rivet,you will have enough vibration and engine noise to sort that out.
Well, That didn't work. I used the same tools as shown in the video and the cush did not budge at all! very disappointing! I'll probably have to drill out the rubber and try and cut through the outer metal casings with a hacksaw. If I was doing this again, I would be tempted to clean the wheel and touch up, as it was in really good nick actually. But I have killed any chance of backing out, as the heat I applied has yellowed and stained the powder-coat. Moral of the story is, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"
OK - dropped frame and front wheel off at powder coaters today They say wheels are original powder coat, which they believe to be 'Traffic White' RAL 9016 Lab, RGB, CYMK and HLC Values for RAL 9016 - Traffic white from the RAL Classic colour range So doing the frame in that as well - it was the middle one of three shades not to bright, not to creamy.
Frame back from powder coat today. Will post pic tomorrow as phone battery dead. Looks like new. All of August has been busy with family, work, gardening, house DIY, you name it... But there has been a new addition to the garage... Original black set, from a 1992 bike (my reg is J... - so could be 1992!). always loved this look - now I have two sets of clothes for the white frame and wheels! Paid over the odds for them, but i think they are very rare - only made a few in one year only and most went stateside. Apparently, many were re-painted red by the dealers to make them sell. So - all i need now is a yellow 1992 superlight (import form USA), and a silver FE to complete the full set! (but I sort of worry about the FE - it doesn't have the CAGIVA lettering I love)
It bet it does look good in black and against a white frame lovely jubbly. I have been told they did a blue one, Italian blue would make sense.
Just drill the rivets out. I have done it twice, don't think there's any other way. As regards the cush drive rubbers, it's the most difficult job I had to do on mine. Very time comsuming but worth it as my cush rubbers were clearly breaking down.
Kinda. Drilled rubber, pulled out inner, cut out rubber which came away in parts then using dremel and grinding stones ground through outer ring till I could collapse it. Horrible job.
very nice, also supplied black as half faired version and both with a grey seat, which looked just a little odd, never seen a blue SS from the factory, (Paso was supplied in blue) SL & FE being solo seat units is in another order of faff to obtain and fit properly. Higher pipes etc. Great watching your progress, keep it up!
I've never seen a blue one either but a mate tells me he has a brochure with one in, it could have been a mock up, I will have to get him to dig it out sometime.
Those fairings and tank were on the bay, were pricy but you got a small breather tank, they are rare and prob £300 on its own if in original red, not a bad buy if no work needed.
Those fairings and tank were on the bay, were pricy but you got a small breather tank, they are rare and prob £300 on its own if in original red, not a bad buy if no work needed.
