I have had some new deliveries this week... A few new brake hoses from Goodridge. Some new cush drive things from Ducati, and a second hand oil radiator with lines all the way from Hicksville, New York (even including the postage this was half the asking price from UK sellers). There was nothing wrong with my oil radiator until i tried to remove it. The galvanic corrosion had totally destroyed the threads on the lines. I wonder if brass connectors to the block can be found?
I popped in to Clearflow to find out how work on my leaking black petrol tank was progressing. The rust was pretty bad apparently. First they had to pull out the badly applied fiberglass patched on the inside. They have only done half of the silver soldering so far. I will get it back next week. I would recommend them if anyone else needs radiator, petrol tank welding. They also dipped my heads to remove paint. They do powder coating, but I used another firm in Darlington before I knew that. Still not 100% decided on the black conversion - but it needs repairing anyway.
Is it small breather? I guess they are much rarer. As the rust is a continual problem, a good one will continue to appreciate in value. I wonder if there is a way to remove water from the tank? How does it get in?
The breather pipe is attached to a circular bulge to the right of the midline. The later tanks have a rectangular bulge across the whole of the tank.
They changed the tank design for the '93 models, they also moved from white wheels and frames to gold at the same time and used the new gold graphics. The tanks rust from the inside out, water content in your fuel sinks to the bottom of your tank and sits in the two channels (lowest point) and just rots the metal. The earlier model tanks are rarer because most of them have rotted through by now. A few years back you could pick up an old SS tank up for about 50 quid, they go for considerably more now...
since I had mine repaired (braised) and painted I've been using fuel stabiliser and had no more water issues.
If you suspect you have water in your tank, buy and pour some IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) into your tank, it converts the water to a combustible substance via a chemical reaction, should be available from any hardware or paint supply store. I usually do it once a year, about 250 mL.
Seal tank with por 15, tanks usually cost between 100 to 150. The small breather a bit more. Folk ask up to 300 but that just ridiculous. I have more than one tank for this very reason, rust.
the isopropyl alcohol do you just put it in your tank when you are using the bike and you have fresh fuel added regular or do you add it when the bike is laid up for a period of time if so if left for a period of time are tank internals such as pipes pump etc ok with the ipa no rubber determination ?
have been looking up about the ipa ......mixed views but have found this hmm Sea Foam Sales Company - Sea Foam Motor Treatment
Sorry I didn't make this clear, you add the IPA to a near full tank and then use that tankful, then refill the tank, it is a remedy for water ingress, not a preventative, DO NOT leave it standing in the fuel tank for long as it is also hydroscopic. It is fuel system and paint safe, it is commonly used, it's the solvent in alcohol wipes that Doctors/Nurses, sign writers, painters and all sorts use.
If you want to know if there is water in your petrol tank, pop into your plumbing supplies depot and buy a tube of this for about £10. Smear some on a long enough probe and shove it to the bottom of the tank..........the yellow paste will turn red instantly if there is water in there. Note that an opened tube will go hard quite quickly if not sealed well.
