So made a bit more progress today. I have finally got the old filler neck out of the tank with minimal damage to the tank. So here's the horror that is the inside of the tank The last shot is of the pump and the fuel sender which I think will both need replacing
LOL.... Not quite but it could have been, it has spent 18 or so years living under a tree along with two other bikes, I've had it in parts for the best part of a year in my garage and I was still getting water out of the very bottom. The tank seems very solid, though that could be all the rust holding it together. I had a quick look at the POR15 treatments but quickly got confused by all the different types, could have been the celebratory glass of wine (or 3) that added to the confusion
First picture I thought was a couple loaves of bread Think the fuel sender has a little life yet and I'm sure someone here will help you repair it
I think you are been a bit optomistic...the pump should be ok,mine was solid but after a clean and lube it freed off,mine wasnt as rusty as yours but after i had removed the rust it had holes all over.
electrolysis (probably not spelt right) place small gravel in tank wrap well place in a cement mixer very securely and leave rotating then clean out I would go for the electrolysis personally
I was thinking of putting a bottle of coke or iron bru round it first as they seem to be able to dissolve most things
What johnboy said is best(not the mixer the other). Just need a battery chargers, water, catalyst and a piece of steel, cleans things up a treat. You will need to fix the holes first!! I then fibreglass resin line mine to stop the rot.
Eloctrolysis works well,there is plent of info on google for this,i would strongly advise against fibreglass resin,use POR15 you wont the full kit with the cleaner.
with the electrolysis when cleaned all the crap out reverse the anode and cathode and replate the inside of the tank with clean metal
So I thought its about time I updated this thread. Due to a combination of work, little or no cash, work on finishing the strip down has ground to a halt, till now. I got busy with the swing arm and the rear wheel this weekend. Finally separated the sprocket from the carrier and from the rear wheel. Just need to get the cush rubber out. Sprocket is in very good shape with no hooking or wear on the shoulders of the teeth, actually found some of the original plate finish on the conical spacer. Not bad for sitting in a hedge of all those years. Bearings feel in very good shape, so I'm undecided if I need to replace them. Nearly got all the bolts out of the rear disc, but that's where things started to go a little awry Turned my attention to the swingarm to remove those wretched adjuster screws, got the one on the chain side out without too much trouble, and I thought I'd cracked it until I got to the other side. After some soaking in Dblock I thought I'll give it a go, the bolt head sheared off before I had completed one revolution. Bugger!!!!:rage: The engine is still stuck in the frame as the nearside engine bolt is totally knackered. Still thats why we do things like this. So I'd like to pose a couple of questions to collective. The engine is showing 50K+ miles according to the speedo, should I be looking to pull the engine apart, or would taking the heads off be enough. If I get the heads off, are the studs likely to shear off like the 900 studs? Should I worry about the galley plug in the crank? Whats the trick for getting the front wheel bearings out, I can't seem to work it out. Lastly is a Paso clutch pack the right choice to replace the current pack with. As always all comments welcome
Front wheel bearings..........shine a torch down the inside of the hole.............at one end you will see notches in the spacer.............you need a long screwdriver broken tip with a tiny kink in the last inch and you can whack the screwdriver against the race of the bearing and knock one out, then you can get at the other end..... PS...You have to ask...why is there curry in the petrol tank?
By the way, the spacer tube in the hub should only have the notches at one end....they are at 180 degrees opposite each other, so tap the bearing out from both notches so the hub aluminium bearing housing doesn't get distorted.
Knock them back in with a drift. A large socket of sacrificial quality will do nicely for this. Make sure you get the right bearing size sent. WeMoto got that wrong with mine. Ended up getting them from Ducati.
Great to see you getting back to this. Reading with interest. I hope you can feel the moral support coming your way!
I find it better to use a threaded rod and a large socket against the outer race to pull them in......because when drifting them in, if the spacer is slightly over length, it knocks the other bearing out a bit because the spacer touches the centre races; so not only can it damage the centre races / bearings, it can also leave the bearings not quite seated againt the seat shoulders..........